Strength-to-weight ratio and power-to-weight ratio are critical physical benchmarks for climbers. While improving your technical and mental skills is always paramount, physical training that increases these strength and power ratios will enable you to climb harder.
A well-designed training program, then, should bring about measurable increases in your strength and power with little or no weight gain. Of course, if you’re carrying around excess body fat, then training for weight loss is likely the quickest pathway to a higher strength-to-weight ratio.
The optimal body fat percentage is 6 to 12 percent for men and 8 to 16 percent for women, and most elite climbers are near the low end of these ranges. If you’re not sure how you measure up, consider having your body fat tested (call around to local medical centers and private training centers and university physio labs). Or you can use the economic pinch-an-inch method on your waistline–if you can pinch an inch (or more), then you are certainly not in the optimal range.
Similarly, excessive muscular weight is about as bad as excessive fat. In fact, since muscle weighs more than fat per unit volume, large muscles in the wrong place are worse than fat. Your previous sports background and former methods of training, as well as genetics, play a large role in the amount of muscle mass you are carrying. For example, perhaps you previously were involved in a body building or Cross-Fit style of training program (doing many sets of high rep exercises which tends to grow larger muscles). Or, perhaps, you come from a family of endomorphs who naturally have larger bones and thicker legs. Regardless of your situation, you can certainly improve your body composition and strength ratios, but there will obviously be genetic limitations.
No matter if you can “pinch an inch” or possess large muscles that you’d like to somewhat shrink, you can go about doing this via nutritional and/or training interventions (ideally both). The dietary strategy is to reduce empty calories from junk foods and high-fat fast foods, while maintaining a steady consumption of protein and moderate consumption of carbohydrates. Getting into specific foods to eat and avoid is beyond the scope of this article, but the ideal macronutrient caloric breakdown for an athlete is 60 to 65 percent carbohydrate, 15 percent protein, and 20 to 25 percent fat. (Popular low-carb, high-fat diets, while often successful at yielding weight loss, are not the right program for a strength/power athlete needing carbohydrates to supply high-energy muscle fuel.)
So how many calories to you need and how much should you reduce calories for weight loss? Everyone is different (age, metabolism, insulin sensitivity, activity level, etc.), but here are some rough estimates to begin your personal analysis. An active male (weighing around 160 pounds) desirous of some weight loss might restrict his total dietary intake to around 2,000 calories per day (up to 50 percent more on extremely active days). This would break down to about 300 grams of carbohydrate, 90 grams of protein, and 55 grams of fat. Similarly, an active female (around 120 lbs) wanting to drop a few pounds might limit total daily food consumption to about 1,500 calories (up to 30 percent more on extremely active days), striving for a macronutrient breakdown of around 245 grams of carbohydrate, 65 grams of protein, and 50 grams of fat. Upon achieving desired climbing weight, gradually increase caloric intake to determine the appropriate consumption to maintain a stable body weight. (Use this niffy online Calorie Calculator to estimate your needs and burn rate.)
In addition to your climbing-specific training activities, you need to
fall in love with, er, persevere in doing some running–by far the most effective method of incinerating fat and shrinking unwanted muscle. Don’t worry about losing your climbing muscles, however; they will be preserved as long as you continue to climb regularly and consume at least 1 gram of protein per kilogram of body weight per day. Other popular aerobic activities such as steep mountain biking and the StairMaster will yield mixed results: They do eat up body fat, but they may maintain (or build) undesirable leg muscle. Swimming or fast hiking are good alternatives, if you can’t run.
How should you run? There are two approaches: long-slow distance running and high-intensity interval training.
- Long-slow distance running is most common for weight loss, as many people believe it’s the best way to burn fat. Sure, going for a 20- to 60-minute run will burn a decent number of calories…and doing this a few days per week will likely yield decent result over the course of several weeks. However, long distance running doesn’t do much for your metabolism and excessive distance will likely detract from your climbing strength and power. Therefore, if you choose this form of running I suggest you limit yourself to three or four 20-minute runs per week.
- High-intensity intervals are my preferred form of running, and this is what I suggest for my clients. The time investment is just 20-minutes three days per week, but the metabolic results are better than churning out many miles of long-slow distance. The strategy here is to jog for 4 minutes as a warm-up, then alternate one-minute of near-maximal running (90% of a full sprint speed) with one-minute of jogging or walking (I generally walk for 30 seconds then jog for 30 seconds). Do 5 to 8 of these intervals, then do a minute or two of cool-down jogging or walking.
As you near your weight target you can reduce these workouts to just one or two per week.
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