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Author: Eric Hörst

Hypergravity Isolation Training: 10 Tips to Optimize Your Session

Hypergravity Isolation Training: 10 Tips to Optimize Your Session

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 1, 2015 | Train Body, Training Articles

Hypergravity Isolation Training develops maximum grip strength through weighted practice on a...

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Building a H.I.T. System Wall

Building a H.I.T. System Wall

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 1, 2015 | Train Body, Training Articles

Use an overhanging bouldering wall of 3/4-inch plywood at an angle of 45 to 55 degrees past...

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H.I.T. Workout F.A.Q.

H.I.T. Workout F.A.Q.

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 1, 2015 | Train Body, Training Articles

Q: How much weight do you use for your HIT Workouts? A: I developed the HIT Workout over several...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from renowned climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger
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Think you need more endurance because your forearm Think you need more endurance because your forearms get pumped? 

Maybe—but that may be only part of the problem.

In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down 22 practical ways to become a better endurance climber, spanning physiology, technique, tactics, mental control, and smarter training. 

You’ll learn why climbing economy matters as much as fitness, how to build a stronger aerobic engine without turning every session into a sufferfest, when and how to train anaerobic power-endurance, and why strength, pacing, footwork, breathing, resting tactics, and confidence all influence how long you can keep climbing hard.

The goal isn’t simply to tolerate more pump. It’s to become a more efficient climbing machine—wasting less energy, recovering faster, and arriving at the upper crux with more strength and control still in the tank.

👉Listen at the linktree in bio, or search Eric Horst's Training For Climbing podcast on Spotify, Apple podcasts, or your favorite podcast player.

#climbing #climbingpodcast #climbingendurance #sportclimbing
Training For Climbing Podcast #133 - Weekend Crush Training For Climbing Podcast #133 - Weekend Crushers #3

My latest T4C Podcast guest, @kevindahlstrom didn’t climb his first 5.13 until age 50. Five years later, he was having the strongest season of his life and chasing 5.13c—until a freak accident in Mexico caused a catastrophic triceps tendon tear and major surgery.

In this episode, Kevin and I dig into his comeback, training and recovery after 40, and why aging climbers need to become increasingly intentional about sleep, nutrition, mobility, recovery, and targeted training. We also explore health monitoring, TRT, peptides, and Kevin’s audacious long-term goal of climbing 5.14.

But this conversation is about much more than climbing grades. Kevin left a highly successful corporate career in his late 40s to reorganize his life around something even more valuable: time. His idea of becoming a “time billionaire” sparks a fascinating discussion about aging, ambition, priorities, and how to stay strong, adventurous, and fully engaged with life for decades to come.

#kevindahlstrom #climbinglife #climbingpodcast
What if the biggest thing holding back your climbi What if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn’t finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you’re not consistently doing the things you already know you should be doing?

In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, I dig into 9 powerful principles for behavior modification and self-mastery—and how they can help you train more consistently, improve your nutrition, manage your time, recover better, and become a stronger, more disciplined climber. We’ll explore everything from questioning the stories you tell yourself and building an athlete identity, to embracing invisible progress, keeping promises to yourself, and making decisions based on principles rather than emotions.

Because long-term success isn’t about being perfectly motivated or discovering some secret training hack. It’s about controlling the controllables, showing up, learning from failure, and repeatedly doing the small things that move you toward the athlete you want to become. If you want to climb harder—and become better at the game of life along the way—give this episode a listen. 🎧💪🧗

👉Listen at link in profile, on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or at www.TraininhForClimbing.com
Some crazy strength displays here by @cam_horst 💪🏼 Some crazy strength displays here by @cam_horst 💪🏼💪🏼 #campuspower #campusing #climbing #climbingtraining
off your project? Then this episode of the Trainin off your project? Then this episode of the Training For Climbing podcast is for you!

In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance.

We explore why improving endurance isn’t just about surviving pumpy workouts—it’s about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You’ll learn how better technique, movement economy, breathing, and confidence can dramatically improve your endurance before you ever change your fitness.

Next, we dive into the physiology of climbing performance, breaking down the differences between aerobic endurance, anaerobic power endurance, and maximum strength—and why all three must be trained if you want to reach your climbing potential. I explain how to structure your training using route climbing, treadwall intervals, spray wall workouts, bouldering circuits, and submaximal volume sessions to build endurance the smart way instead of simply climbing until your forearms explode.

Whether you’re training for your first 5.12, projecting steep sport routes, preparing for long days at the crag, or simply looking for the most effective climbing training methods backed by exercise science and decades of coaching experience, this episode is packed with practical strategies you can apply immediately. 

👉 Click link in profile to listen to this information-packed episode #131 of the Training For Climbing podcast.

@ryandevlinoutside @jonathan_horst  #climbingtraining #sportclimbing #endurancetraining #climbingpodcast
THE SECRET TO CLIMBING YOUR BEST! Have you ever n THE SECRET TO CLIMBING YOUR BEST!

Have you ever noticed that your best climbing days often happen when you're relaxed, having fun, and fully immersed in the moment? Meanwhile, the days when you put the most pressure on yourself to send can leave you feeling tense, frustrated, and climbing below your true ability.

For years, many of us have believed that becoming a better climber requires becoming more serious. But research in sport psychology tells a different story. The world's best performers are certainly disciplined and dedicated—but they're also driven by joy, curiosity, and a genuine love of the process. Those qualities don't distract from excellence—they fuel it.

In this new T4C article, I explore the science behind what I call the Joyful Warrior mindset. You'll learn why intrinsic motivation, positive emotions, and a playful approach to climbing can reduce fear, accelerate learning, improve performance under pressure, and ultimately help you reach your biggest climbing goals.

If you've ever struggled with performance anxiety, getting stuck on a project, or putting too much pressure on yourself to succeed, I think you'll find this article both encouraging and eye-opening. 

Click the article in the profile Linktree to discover why having more fun might be one of the most powerful ways to climb harder.

@rannveigaamodt

#climbingtraining #joyfulwarrior #mentaltraining #climbingmindset #climbing
Here's a brief excerpt of a training tip I contrib Here's a brief excerpt of a training tip I contributed to my friend Dr. Jared Vagy's outstanding new book, The Resilient Climber. @theclimbingdoctor

Beautifully illustrated and highly practical, this book breaks down 40 essential climbing movements and reveals the specific strength, mobility, and stability required to perform each one efficiently and safely.

Each movement begins with a challenge, a test that assesses your body’s capacity to perform it well, followed by targeted exercises to address the specific limitations uncovered. You’ll then learn how to integrate these exercises into a structured routine.

While injury prevention is a central theme, The Resilient Climber is much more than a rehab book. It's a movement-based training guide designed to help climbers move more efficiently, climb stronger, perform better, and stay healthy for the long haul.

No matter your experience level, there's always room to improve movement quality and build greater resilience. This book provides a clear roadmap for doing exactly that.

👉 Learn more about The Resilient Climber and grab your copy today with an exclusive 10% discount at the Linktree in profile.

#theclimbingdoctor #theresilientclimber #climbinginjuries #climbingtraining #climbingrehab
🚨 I'm excited to share the release of my friend Dr 🚨 I'm excited to share the release of my friend Dr. Jared Vagy's outstanding new book, The Resilient Climber. @theclimbingdoctor

Beautifully illustrated and highly practical, this book breaks down 40 essential climbing movements and reveals the specific strength, mobility, and stability required to perform each one efficiently and safely.

Each movement begins with a challenge, a test that assesses your body’s capacity to perform it well, followed by targeted exercises to address the specific limitations uncovered. You’ll then learn how to integrate these exercises into a structured routine.

While injury prevention is a central theme, The Resilient Climber is much more than a rehab book. It's a movement-based training guide designed to help climbers move more efficiently, climb stronger, perform better, and stay healthy for the long haul.

No matter your experience level, there's always room to improve movement quality and build greater resilience. This book provides a clear roadmap for doing exactly that.

👉 Learn more about The Resilient Climber and grab your copy today with an exclusive 10% discount at the Linktree in profile.

#theclimbingdoctor #theresilientclimber #climbinginjuries #climbingtraining #climbingrehab
🚨Cameron Hörst recently completed the first ascent 🚨Cameron Hörst recently completed the first ascent of the long-standing project “Big Bone” (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah’s massive Fin Cave.

What makes his ascent especially compelling isn’t just the grade—it’s the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop.

In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the breakthroughs that finally moved the needle, and the lessons any climber can apply to their own long-term goals—whether you’re projecting 5.10 or 5.15.

One of the most fascinating takeaways is that the breakthrough wasn’t a sudden gain in finger strength or power. Instead, it came from years of accumulated training adaptations, comprehensive energy system development, improved recovery, refined tactics, and learning when not to climb. Cameron shares how he finally broke through a plateau that had stalled his progress for multiple seasons.

👉This podcast is loaded with inspiration and tips for climbers working on a hard project...or training for the next grade! Listen to T4C podcast #130 at the link in profile, or watch the interview on the T4C YouTube channel.

Photo: @dantbaum 

#sportclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingpodcast #cameronhorst physivantage
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