I’m happy to endorse the Entralpli Kickstarter project for a first-of-its-kind force plate for guiding effective fingerboard training and providing accurate measurements of peak finger force![Disclosure: I have no financial interest in this project—I’m just paying it forward to the next generation of climbing innovators.]
I’ve been testing prototypes of the Entralpi system for the past two years, and so I’m very familiar with the uniqueness of this technology. Standing on the Entrapli force plate while gripping your hangboard allows you to measure the finger force you apply to the holds. Furthermore, by taking a measurement of your peak finger force beforehand, Entralpi can calculate and display real-time the percentage of peak finger force at which you are training—this is a massive training technology breakthrough in that climbers and coaches can now direct accurate finger flexor muscle training of the different energy systems!
For example, doing long-duration sets (say, 3 to 10 minutes) of Repeaters (7 seconds gripping, 3 seconds resting) at 30 to 50 percent of peak finger force targets the aerobic energy system. Alternatively, doing 30 seconds to two minutes of 7/3 Repeaters at 60 to 80 percent will train strength-endurance (primarily the anaerobic lactic system, but also secondarily the local aerobic energy system). Brief hangs (5 to 12 seconds) at 85 to 90 percent of peak finger force, with rests of 2 to 3 minutes in between, is ideal for training maximum finger strength (alactic power). There are numerous other protocols possible as well.
NOTE: You can couple the Entralpi system with the Lattice Testing Rung to accuately test your finger strength on their standardized test edge. This way you can submit your data to Lattice Training’s large database and compare yourself to climbers around the world!
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