Podcast: Eric Hörst Interview with Training Beta
I was happy to do an extended interview with Neely Quinn of TrainingBeta.com, and we…
Podcast #3: Accelerated Learning of Climbing Skills
Despite being as intuitive and natural as walking or running, climbing can be a remarkably…
Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs
Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery yielded faster…
Podcast #2: Climbing Performance “X-Factors”
Ever wonder what intangibles make great climbers great? Learn the “X-factors” that help make greats like Ondra,…
Projecting Strategies – How to Suss and Send
“Nix any thoughts of redpointing the route—leave that for some future moment; whether it’s later in the…
Matilda Söderlund Trains at Café Kafe
This new Gimme Kraft! video features Matilda Söderlund, a Swedish climber who burst onto the…
Sachi Amma Gettin’ Kraft!
This Gimme Kraft! video shows Japan’s Sachi Amma visiting Cafe Kraft coach Dicki Korb, during…
Training Maximum Grip Strength with the Nicros’ H.I.T. System
One of the greatest training-for-climbing hits is Hypergravity Isolation Training (aka H.I.T.), an advanced protocol…
Overview of Youth Training for Climbing
With the growing popularity of youth climbing competitions and the recent press of pre-teen climbers…
The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Key Findings and Practical Applications Elite climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power,…