Welcome to the second round of “Ask Coach Hörst”! In this episode I answer 10 listener questions covering vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis, and more. Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. Enjoy!


1:12 – Question #1 – When fingerboard training with weighted hangs…what’s the weight-added difference when doing 10″ x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7″/53″ x 3 protocol?

5:17 – Question #2 – Is training individual fingers by suspending a light free weight from a sling a useful technique?

10:40 – Question #3 – What days should I do supplemental training if climbing four days per week (combined outside and indoors)?

14:47 – Question #4 – Belaying and rehab advice for recovering for a climber returning from a broken wrist?

17:37 – Question #5 – Training recommendations for a 50-something climber with extensive background in weight lifting and running?

26:30 – Question #6 – Advice on dealing with…and hopefully recovering from medial elbow tendinopathy?

31:00 – Question #7 – My anaerobic endurance (power output) drops sharply at 40 to 45 seconds into hard, sustained climbing–how can I train to improve my anaerobic capacity?

37:51 – Question #8 – Can you recommend some pre-workout foods and give advice on what to eat at the crags? Also, how much protein should I eat each day?

44:20 – Question #9 – Mother asks Eric’s training advice for her 12-year-old daughter…a nationally-ranked boulderer. What’s the best training approach?

49:35 – Question #10 – How to organize training when you have a hangboard at home, but your access to a training/bouldering wall is at a gym without a hangboard?

52:10 – Wrap up…How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of “Ask Coach Horst”. Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned “Ask Coach Horst” podcast.

NOTE: I’ll record the next episode of Ask Coach Horst in late July for release in early August. If you’d like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing — include your first name, location, and years climbing.

Music by: Misty Murphy

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