Tag: Alex Megos

5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Equal Better Climbi...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 21, 2024 | Train Body, Training Articles

Climb More Creatively with Alex Megos’ Stretching ...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Oct 3, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Technique & Skills

The “10-4″ Rule for Projecting Sport Climbs...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Apr 24, 2023 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

“Boulder Campusing” Power Endurance Tr...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 14, 2021 | Train Body, Training Articles, Training Videos

Send Video! Alex Megos Climbs His Hardest Route: B...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Nov 19, 2020 | Climbing Mastery

Alex Megos Establishes World’s Second 5.15d

Posted by Eric Hörst | Aug 7, 2020 | Climbing Mastery, Instagram Stories

Megos Send Video: The Power of Genuinely Loving “The Process”!

by Eric Hörst | Jul 8, 2020 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind

It’s just another bouldering video. Right? Ten days of suffering, angst, and “wanting...

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Watch Movie Now! ROTPUNKT — The Story of Redpoint Climbing…and Alex Megos

by Eric Hörst | Nov 18, 2019 | Climbing Mastery, Gimme Kraft!, Motivation

If you’re a core climber, then this is a must-watch film — in my opinion, it’s one of...

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Rotpunkt: Alex Megos and the Art of the Redpoint (Trailer)

by Eric Hörst | Sep 1, 2019 | Climbing Mastery, Training Videos

Sport climbing videos are virtually ubiquitous (and often unremarkable), but when I heard about...

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Video: Training for the Crux

by Eric Hörst | Mar 1, 2019 | Gimme Kraft!, Train Strategy, Training Videos

Here’s a short video, featuring the powerful Alex Megos and climbing icon Jerry Moffatt,...

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Video: Alex Megos’ Training Interview

by Eric Hörst | Mar 8, 2017 | Training Videos

In these two short EPIC-TV videos, Alex provides some insight into his current training and recent...

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Video: Rock Stars Training at Sharma Gym

by Eric Hörst | Feb 21, 2017 | Training Videos

It’s kind of like a training-for-climbing “dream team”! Chris Sharma and his...

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Video: Alex Megos’ “The Secret” (Episode 4)

by Eric Hörst | Oct 1, 2016 | Training Videos

Here’s the fourth and final video in the Red Bull series about Alex Megos. This episode...

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Video: Alex Megos “Gravity” (Episode 3)

by Eric Hörst | Aug 10, 2016 | Training Videos

22-year-old Alex Megos continues to amaze… Earlier this month Alex established...

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Video: Alex Megos “Friction” (Episode 2)

by Eric Hörst | Jun 1, 2016 | Training Videos

In June of 2015 my family and I climbed with Alex Megos in the Frankenjura, his home crag in...

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Video: Alex Megos “Momentum” (Part 1)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 16, 2016 | Training Videos

Red Bull athlete, Alex Megos, trains about as hard and smart as anyone on the planet. He’s...

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Video: Be Strong Like Alex (Megos) Parts 1 & 2

by Eric Hörst | Dec 26, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

Here are two great boulder-training videos featuring German rockstar, Alex Megos. In case...

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Gimme Kraft! Trailer (featuring Alex Megos)

by Eric Hörst | Feb 1, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

There’s no such thing as too much power! –Wolfgang Güllich “Wolfgang’s quote is...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Projecting is all about long-term investment, but

Projecting is all about long-term investment, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t make it more efficient. Prevent burnout on your project by learning 10 tips and techniques for speeding up the redpointing process! Read more in the link in bio for 10 Do’s and Dont’s in climbing!
#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training #redpoint

@thestruggleclimbingshow “Getting the training r

@thestruggleclimbingshow “Getting the training right becomes more and more important with every passing year.“

In the recent Road to 13a episode with @eric_horst, we take a deep dive into WHAT to train and WHEN to train it… in order to peek when it matters.

🎧 You can listen to the full 90-min episode at zero cost, wherever you get your pods. Or follow the link in our bio!

As the fall season approaches endurance climbing i

As the fall season approaches endurance climbing is surely on the minds of a lot of climbers. The nuances of outdoor climbing can sometimes even overwhelming, especially on a long project. It’s important to understand these nuances to stay in control and maximize your efforts. These nuances include understanding how to rest, keeping your mind in check, and mitigating pump. Read about these in depth in the link in bio for Slowing The Pump Clock!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #climb #endurance #pump #strongerclimbing

Check out last weeks article with RD @amity.warme

Check out last weeks article with RD @amity.warme on all things fueling your personal climbing journey. Personal nutrition, importance of weight: weight loss, and optimal weight, as well as meal timing and supplement use. Read about it all in the link in our bio!
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#climbing #nutrition #training #trainingforclimbing

@c4hp outlines the importance of training lock off

@c4hp outlines the importance of training lock offs along with a detailed progression of increasing recruitment to target the lats to help you climb stronger!
・・・
✊🏽Inverted Row Progression✊🏽

Training the arms at 90 degrees (out in front of the body, not overhead) or with less shoulder flexion has been shown to be optimal for lat activation.

If the goal is to train the lats for pull strength, the recommendation is to use the inverted or seated row exercise. Many gyms don’t have a seated row machine, so the inverted row is a practical substitute.

The following videos show a progression of difficulty for the inverted row exercise. If your gym does not have a seated row machine (more straightforward to add intensity), you need to modify the method of using the inverted row to increase recruitment.

Video 1️⃣ : 90-120-degree lock-off transitions. Hold each angle for 5-seconds and move between them. Do this to muscular failure each set. 5 sets with 2-3-minutes rest. After 6-10 sessions, progress to video 2 example.

Video 2️⃣ : 90-degree single arm lock-offs. Hold each angle for 5-seconds, alternating arms. Do this to failure each set. 5 sets / arm with 2-3-minutes rest. I’d also do this at the 120-degree elbow angle (no video). After 6-10 sessions, progress to video 3.

Video 3️⃣: 1-arm full range inverted row. Make sure you reduce the intensity as needed (make the body less horizontal to the floor). Pull from the straight arm through a full range of each set. 5 sets of 2-4 reps/arm with 2-3-minutes rest. After 6-10 sessions, progress to video 4.

Video 4️⃣: Power-focused inverted rows. Full range of motion pulling with maximum concentric (pulling towards the bar) velocity. 5 sets of 4-8 reps (power low) each set. 2-3-minutes rest. After 6-10 sessions, stop the progression, send boulders, or switch to another pulling exercise

There isn’t a “perfect” exercise for a sport. Exercises are supplements that have an intention. Sticking with one for too long is not practical either. Injury prevention is exercise progressions and regressions.

#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing

Coach @eric_horst is back on the Road to 13a to po

Coach @eric_horst is back on the Road to 13a to pour a bucket of cold reality on my summer training, and help get me ready to take on my hardest route this fall.

In this nutrient-dense conversation we cover:
- What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season
- How to carry a project over from one season to the next
- The secret to being a successful route climber
- Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training
- The science of building route fitness
- Summer training specifics (in 10 hours a week)
- Why many climbers are training endurance wrong

This episode is brought to you at zero cost thanks to @physivantage. For this month only, use code ROAD to score 20% off your full price nutrition order 💪

Listen wherever you get your podcasts, and access the full uncut video plus exclusive bonus content by supporting the show on Patreon (7-day free trial!), link in bio 🤘

I hope your training and climbing are going great!

Find it wherever you podcasts are found!

📷: @twincannons

If you haven’t checked it out yet go tune into t

If you haven’t checked it out yet go tune into the TFC podcast from earlier this spring about the impact skin care and chalk on performance. The numerous techniques to optimize of these aspects of performance are discussed in depth in this episode. Click the link in the bio “Getting a Grip TFC podcast 97” to read more and find the episode wherever you listen!
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#climb #training #skin #climbingtraining #climbing

Curious how to get into hangboard training? Depend

Curious how to get into hangboard training? Depending on where you’re at in your climbing journey, you need a tailored hangboard protocol (or none at all) varying in intensity, duration, and frequency. Check out the comprehensive guide to beginning hangboard training in the “introduction to hangboard training” link in bio.

#trainingforclimbing #climb #climbingtraining #fingerstrength #climbing

Everyone knows the importance of core strength but

Everyone knows the importance of core strength but are you training it effectively? Every climber should have a diverse regime of core workouts to work on different ways of recruitment and primary focuses. Here @yannick_flohe outlines a bit so easy workout that can be done quickly almost anywhere. Other important exercises include planks, in the wall isometric exercises and sling work. Check out some more in depth exercises in the “Advanced Core Training for Climbers” article in the link in our bio!
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#climbing #climbingtraining #climb #corestrength #strong

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