What could be better than training and climbing…with coffee?

For the duration of the COVID-19 “shutdown”, Eric will host livestreaming episodes of Training Café most Monday’s and Thursday’s at 12:00pm ET (1600GMT). Tune in for the live episodes or watch on-demand on the TrainingForClimbing YouTube channel. Please visit and subscribe!

Watch Episode #8 — Home Training Demo on the Importance of “Hitting All of the Angles”


MUST-READ: “The Ultimate Guide to Hangboard Training!” – Comprehensive and FREE!

1:05 – TC “Shout Out” to Kris Hampton — congrats on his book “The Hard Truth”. Get a copy here: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/

1:50 – Training at home BEYOND the hangboard — the importance of “mixing it up” and working all the angles and vectors to better prepare your body for a return to outdoor climbing. 3:28 – Quick follow-up on Energy System, as covered in the previous Training Cafes. Learn who should use this organizing concept for effective training. Link to awesome podcasts on EST: https://trainingforclimbing.com/podca…

10:15 – Importance of mixing up your training and taking an occasional “deload” week. 12:30 – Demo of “Moving Hangs” on a hangboard. 16:36 – Using a Sling Trainer, TRX, or similar to hit many different angles with Rows, Ts, Ys, Is, Pec Flys and Rollouts. 19:00 – About motor learning and kinesthetic awareness of joint position. Learning to apply force more effectively and move your center of gravity more efficiently. 21:30 – Rotator cuff training 23:35 – Effective Pinch Grip training with a pinch block. 25:30 – Importance of training the finger/wrist extensor muscles. Learn the exercises! 28:00 – How to make a Wrist Roller for training the wrist flexor and extensor muscles. 32:20 – Closing comments…

For an in-depth study of Energy System, listen to T4C podcasts #21 to #28.

Watch Episode #7 for viewer questions on hangboard training…and more.


Episode #7 had some audio issues, but most of the troubled spots have been edited out. So this is a pretty clean 20 minutes of the show. Enjoy…with coffee!

1:05 – A brief primer on training postural muscles–I’ll demo some home exercise for this in upcoming episode #8. 3:30 – Proposal to “make April great again”…by learning a new skill or taking on a new initiative 5:20 – How much climbing endurance will I lose on a 2 to 3 month stay-at-home? 8:17 – When max strength training (alactic) should I try finger flexors or pulling muscles first?

10:40 – Should I train max strength (alatic) core and posterior chain exercises on the same day as max strength climbing exercises. 11:50 – I’m doing max hangs with 90 pounds added–should I begin doing one-handed max hangs to increase resistance? 13:35 – My right forearm gets more pumped when training, but my left crimp grip feels weaker–what’s going on…and can I correct this unevenness? [16:10 – another brief audio drop] 16:20 – I have hypermobile joints and am weak at crimping–what can I do? 17:10 – Is it okay for youth climbers to hangboard and campus train? 18:32 – How can I reduce the size of my large leg muscles?

Links to the tendon-training podcasts Eric mentioned: T4C podcasts #33 – #36 and #39.

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