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{"sheet":"Exercise Directory","index":0,"n_rows":38,"n_cols":23,"rows_kept":38,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[31,0,31,6],[37,0,37,6],[32,0,32,6],[33,0,33,6],[35,1,35,6],[0,0,1,22],[3,0,3,2],[28,0,29,22],[3,16,3,18],[3,20,3,22],[8,13,8,14],[8,21,8,22],[13,21,13,22],[15,20,16,20],[15,21,16,22],[3,4,3,6],[3,8,3,10],[3,12,3,14],[23,12,23,22],[25,12,25,22],[24,12,24,22]]}
["Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing Program -- www.Training4Climbing.com (Copyright 2016 - All Rights Reserved)"]
[]
[]
["Antagonist and Stabilizer Training Exercises",null,null,null,"Core Training Exercise",null,null,null,"Limit-Strength Exercises",null,null,null,"Power-Training Exercises",null,null,null,"Strength/Power-Endurance Training Exercises",null,null,null,"Local and Generalized Aerobic Training Exercises "]
["Wrist & Forearm Stabillizers","REPS","SETS",null,"Anterior Core","REPS","SETS",null,"Finger Flexors","REPS","SETS",null,"Finger Flexors","REPS","SETS",null,"Finger Flexors","REPS","SETS",null,"Local/Climbing-Specific Aerobic Endurance","REPS","SETS"]
["Column1","Column2","Column3","Column32","Column4","Column5","Column6"]
["Band Finger Extension","15 - 25","1 - 2",null,"Feet-Up Crunches","25 - 100","2",null,"Limit Bouldering","1 - 4 tries/prob","3 -7 problems",null,"One-Arm Traversing","6 - 12 moves","2 - 3",null,"Short-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters","6 - 12","3 - 5",null,"ARC Traversing - Recovery Climbing (RPE: 4 to 6)","15 - 30 min.",1]
["Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 25","2 - 3",null,"Hanging Knee Lifts","15 - 20","1 - 3",null,"Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Extension","10 - 20 sec.","2016-02-05",null,"One-Arm Lunging","6 - 12 moves","2 - 3",null,"Bouldering 4x4s",4,4,null,"Submaximal Route Intervals  (RPE: 6 to 8)","2-4 min/route","10 - 20"]
["Pronators","20 - 25",2,null,"Mountain Climber Plank","20 - 50","1 - 2",null,"Hypergravity Bouldering","1 - 3 reps/prob","2 - 7 problems",null,"Campus Board (CB) “Bumps”","2 - 4 sets each side",null,null,"Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters",4,"3 - 5",null,"Climb All Day","many routes"]
["Reverse Arm Curl","15 - 20","1 - 2",null,"1-Arm Elbow & Side Plank","10 - 25","1 - 2",null,"“Minimum Edge” Hangs","5 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"CB Laddering (no skips, smallish rungs)","up only","3 - 10",null,"HIT System—S/P-Endurance Protocol","30 - 90 sec.","6 - 12",null,"Fingerboard Moving Hangs","5 - 10 min.","1 - 3"]
["Wrist Extension Isometric","45 - 90 sec.",2,null,"TRX “Marine Core”","5 - 12","2 - 3",null,"Max-Weight Hangs “10-Second”","5 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"CB “Switch Hands”","6 - 12 moves","2 - 5",null,"System Wall Repeaters","30 - 60 sec.","4 - 12",null,"Campus Board or System Wall “Hand Play”","3 - 5 min.","3 - 6"]
["Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Ext.","10 - 20 sec.","3 - 5",null,"Windshield Wipers","6 - 12","2 - 3",null,"Max-Weight Hangs “7-53” Protocol","3 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"CB Double Dynos  (smallish rungs) ","6 - 12 moves","2 - 5",null,"Small-Rung Ladder Laps (No Skips)","30 - 60 sec.","2 - 5",null,"Threshold Intervals  (RPE: 7 to 8.5 out of 10)","3 - 5 min.","3 - 8"]
["Rotator Cuff & Scap Stabilizers","REPS","SETS",null,"Posterior Core","REPS","SETS",null,"HIT System—Max-Strength Protocol","8 - 15","6 - 12",null,"HIT System Pinch Hold Double Dynos","3 - 6 moves","2 - 3",null,"Arms & Torso","REPS","SETS",null,"Generalized Aerobic Training","REPS","SETS"]
["DB Internal Rotation","20 - 25",2,null,"Superman","20 - 25",2,null,"Heavy Finger Rolls","3 - 8","3 - 5",null,"Arms & Torso","REPS","SETS",null,"Pull-Up Intervals","~5","10 - 20",null,"Steady State Aerobic Training  (RPE: 6 to 8)","15 - 30 min."]
["DB External Rotation","20 - 25",2,null,"Reverse Plank","20 - 60 sec.","2 - 3",null,"Pinch Ball Hangs","3 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"Big-Move Boulder Problems","4 - 8 moves","3 - 8",null,"Big-Holds, Big-Move 4x4s",4,4,null,"Interval Training  (RPE: 8 to 9)","30 - 60 each","6 - 10"]
["Sling Trainer “Ts”","10 - 20",2,null,"Reverse Mtn. Climber Plank","8 - 15","1 - 2",null,"Arms & Torso","REPS","SETS",null,"Power Pull-Up (Chest-Bump)","5 - 12","1 - 3",null,"Route Intervals","3 - 4 routes","1 - 3",null,"High-Volume Generalized Aerobic Training (big wall and alpine climbers only)","45 - 120 min."]
["Sling Trainer “Ys”","10 - 20",2,null,"Side Hip Raises","10 - 20",2,null,"Weighted Pull-Ups","4 - 8","3 - 6",null,"Gym Rope Climbing","sprint to top","3 - 8",null,"Power Pull-Up Intervals (Chest-Bump)","3 - 5","5 - 10"]
["Shrugs","20 - 25",2,null,"Total/Posterior Chain","REPS","SETS",null,"Lat Pulldown","4 - 8","3 - 6",null,"CB “Laddering” (larger rungs w/ skips)","3 - 6 moves","3 - 10",null,"Frenchies","2 - 6 cycles","2 - 4"]
["Scapular Push-Up","15 - 20",2,null,"Sumo Deadlift","10 - 15",2,null,"System Wall “Isolation”","6 - 12","2 - 5",null,"Clap Pull-Ups","3 - 6","2 - 3",null,"Square Dance","45 - 90 sec.","2 - 4"]
["Scapular Pull-Up","6 - 12",2,null,"Dumbbell Snatch","5 - 8","2 - 3",null,"Square Pull-Ups","3 - 6 ","1 - 2",null,"Boulder Campusing (Monkey Biz)","3 - 8 moves","3 - 10",null,"Campus Ladder Laps on Big Holds","30 - 60 sec.","2 - 5"]
["Antagonist (Push) Muscles","REPS","SETS",null,"Barbell Deadlift"," 3 - 6","2 - 4",null,"Typewriters","3 - 6","1 - 2",null,"CB Double Dynos (Large Rungs","5 - 9 moves","1 - 5",null,"Gym Rope Interval","sprint to top","3 - 10"]
["Shoulder Press","15 - 20","1 - 2",null,"Barbell Squat","5 - 8","1 - 2",null,"Scapular Pull-Ups","6 - 12","2 - 3"]
["Bench Press/Push-Up","15 - 25","1 - 2",null,"Climbing-Specific Core","REPS","SETS",null,"Uneven-Grip Pull-Ups","3 - 5","2 - 3"]
["Tricep Pushdown","8 - 12",2,null,"Steep Wall Traversing","60 - 120 sec.","2 - 4",null,"Steep Wall “Lock-Offs” (aka Touches)","6 - 12","2 - 5",null,"RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale of exercise/climbing intensity and subjective exertion. "]
["Sling Trainer Pec Flys","8 - 12",2,null,"Steep Wall Cut & Catch","1 ascent","3 - 5 ascents",null,"One-Arm Lock-Offs","2 - 3","2 - 3",null,"See Training For Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (page 182) for a detailed coverage of \"training zones\" for climbers.  "]
["Dips","8 - 20","2 - 3",null,"Roof Lever-Ups  ","3 - 8","2 - 3",null,"One-Arm Pull-ups","1 - 5","2 - 5"]
[null,null,null,null,"Front Lever","2 - 5","2 - 3"]
[]
["For a detailed description of every exercise listed above, see Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017). Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Entry-level exercises shown in GREEN -- appropriate for all climbers."]
["Intermediate-level exercises shown in GOLD -- appropriate for experienced & advanced climbers."]
["Advanced-level exercises shown in PINK -- appropriate only for advanced/elite climbers."]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst","www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
["DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

{"sheet":"Mesocycle Options","index":1,"n_rows":34,"n_cols":3,"rows_kept":34,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[33,0,33,2],[19,0,19,2],[3,0,3,2],[4,0,4,2],[10,0,10,2],[11,0,11,2],[12,0,12,2],[13,0,13,1],[14,0,14,1],[15,0,15,1],[16,0,16,1],[17,0,17,1],[20,0,20,2],[21,0,21,2],[29,0,29,2],[30,0,30,2],[31,0,31,2],[0,0,0,2],[2,0,2,2]]}
["MESOCYCLES"]
[]
["Mesocycle 1 - \"3-2-1 Periodization\" (6 weeks)"]
["Use: Excellent off-season or between-trip cycle for \"gain training\". Ideal for boulderers and sport climbers."]
[]
[null,"DURATION","TRAINING FOCUS"]
["Phase 1","3 weeks","Relatively low volume maximum strength and power training - targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system."]
["Phase 2","2 weeks","Moderate volume strength- and power-endurance training - many pumpy climbs & exercises that target the anaerobic lactic system."]
["Phase 3","1 week","Pre-trip or pre-comp taper…or 3 to 7 days of active reecovery & rest (before returning to Phase 1 of a next cycle)"]
[]
["Mesocycle 2- \"Daily Undulating Periodization\" or DUP (1 week)"]
["Use: Excellent on-season \"maintainance\" strategy for advanced boulderers and sport climbers. (Technically, this \"mesocycle\" is a 1-week microcycle.)"]
[]
["SESSIONS/WEEK",null,"TRAINING & CLIMBING SESSION FOCUS"]
["1 - 2 sessions/week",null,"Submaximal \"recovery\"/ARC climbing (Aerobic system focus.) Also, do Stabilizer & Antagonist training exercises."]
["1 - 2 sessions/week",null,"Relatively low volume maximum strength & power training OR bouldering for performance. (Anaerobic alactic focus)"]
["1 - 2 sessions/week",null,"Strength- and power-endurance training OR sport climbing for performance (anaerobic lactic focus)"]
["2 days/week",null,"Complete rest - take these rest days before \"performance climbing\" (bouldering or cragging)"]
[]
["Mesocycle 3 - \"4-3-2-1 Periodization\" (10 weeks)"]
["Use: Advanced/elite climbers should only use this mesocycle when returning to training/climbing after an extended (4+ weeks) break due to injury or off-season."]
[]
[null,"DURATION","TRAINING FOCUS"]
["Phase 1 ","4 weeks","High volume submaximal climbing to regain local & general endurance."]
["Phase 2","3 weeks","Relatively low volume maximum strength and power training - targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system."]
["Phase 3","2 weeks","Moderate volume strength- and power-endurance training - many pumpy climbs & exercises that target the anaerobic lactic system."]
["Phase 4","1 week","Pre-trip or pre-comp taper…or 3 to 7 days of active reecovery & rest (before returning to Phase 1 of a next cycle)"]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst"]
[]
["DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

{"sheet":"Microcycle Options","index":2,"n_rows":64,"n_cols":8,"rows_kept":64,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[0,0,0,7],[9,0,9,7],[17,0,17,7],[18,0,18,7],[63,0,63,7],[27,0,27,7],[61,0,61,7],[54,0,54,7],[56,0,56,7],[55,0,55,7],[36,0,36,7],[45,0,45,7],[59,0,59,7]]}
["MICROCYCLE #1"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (non-performance/indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #2"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #3"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #4"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)",null,"Hardest",null,"Light-Mod"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises",null,"Hardest",null,"Light & low-vol."]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #5 (no outdoor \"performance climbing\")"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)",null,null,null,null,null,"Hardest","Light-Mod"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #7 (no outdoot \"performance climbing\")"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)",null,null,null,"Light-Mod",null,"Hardest"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises",null,null,null,"Light & low-vol.",null,"Hardest"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["LONG-TERM PROGRAMMING & NOTES"]
["Program Focus: Strengthening all 3 energy systems; improving technique & mental skills; performance climbing 1 - 2 days per week."]
["Notes:  Periodized mesocycle via 4-3-2-1, DUP, or 3-2-1 training cycles. See Mesocycle tab below."]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst"]
[]
["DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

{"sheet":"Max Strength-Power Workout","index":3,"n_rows":55,"n_cols":9,"rows_kept":55,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[54,2,54,5],[0,0,1,8],[5,0,5,8],[2,0,2,8],[4,0,4,8],[3,0,3,8],[32,1,32,3],[49,0,50,8],[52,0,52,8],[6,0,6,1],[7,0,7,3],[6,2,6,3],[28,0,28,1],[44,0,44,1],[35,0,35,1],[14,0,14,3],[15,1,15,3],[16,1,16,3],[21,0,21,3],[22,1,22,3],[17,1,17,3],[23,1,23,3],[24,1,24,3],[26,2,26,3],[18,1,18,3]]}
["\"Advanced\" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Max-Strength & Power Workout"]
[]
[]
["WORKOUT GOALS: Improve limit bouldering ability and develop greater maximum strength & power, specifically targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system, with brief (5 - 20 sec.) near-maximal exercise and copious rest between."]
[]
["Workout with Climbing (2 - 3.25 hours)"]
[null,null,"SUGGESTED REPS & SETS",null,"DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE"]
["General Warm-up Activity, including Mobility/Flexibility Exercises (15 - 20 miuntes)"]
[1,"5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity"]
[2,"5 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering"]
[3,"5  minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching"]
[4,"Do 2 set of Scapular Pull-ups 8 - 12 reps"]
[5,"Do 1 set of Power Pull-ups (Bar to Chest) 8 - 12"]
[]
[" Near-maximal \"limit\" bouldering & hypergravity bouldering (45 - 90 minutes)",null,null,null,"ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS"]
[6,"Do 4 to 8 near-maximal boulders (within 3 number grades of limit) Rest 3 minutes btwn sends."]
[7,"Work on 2 to 4 \"limit\" boulders (at limit or within 1 number grade) Rest at least 3 minutes btwn attempts."]
["8a","Do 4 to 8 sub-maximal boulders (4+ number grades below limit) with a 5 or 10 lb weight belt, or…."]
["8b","Do two sets/grip of HIT Strip System Training, or…."]
["8c","4 - 8 Campus boulder problems (Monkey Business)"]
[]
["Finger Flexor Strength/Power Exercises (30 - 45 minutes)",null,null,null,"WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[9,"3 - 5 sets of three \"7-53\" Max Weight Fingerboard Hangs (OPTIONAL: Do as a training \"complex\" with next exercise)"]
["10a","6 - 10 sets of campus \"laddering\" (up only) on medium or small rungs (do either 11a or 11b, not both!)"]
["10b","3 - 5 sets of campus \"double dynos\" on large or medium rungs ("]
[null,"NOTE: Combine 10 & 11a or 10 & 11b into a training \"complex\", per TFC book."]
[11,"Wide Pinch (standing with weighted block) -- 10 - 30 pinch w/ 2 min rest","2 - 5 pinches each side"]
[]
["Pull-muscle exercises (10 - 20 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[12,"Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps)","3-5","3 - 5"]
["13a","Campus Ladder (UP only) on large rungs (skip if able…1-3-5-7 or 1-4-7)","1 ascent","3 - 5"]
["13b","Power Pull--ups (chest bumb)","4 - 6 reps","3 - 5"]
[null,"NOTE: Combine 12 & 13a or 12 & 13b into a training \"complex\", per TFC book. Rest 5 minutes btwn complexes."]
[null,"(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)"]
[]
["Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS"]
[14,"Windshield Wipers","6 - 12","1 - 3"]
[15,"Supermans","16 - 20","1 - 2"]
[16,"Front Levers","2 - 5","2 - 3"]
[17,"Mountain Climber Plank","20 - 30",1]
[18,"TRX/Sling Training \"Marine Core\"","6 - 12","1 - 2"]
[19,"Feet-up Crunches","50 - 100","1 - 2"]
[null,"(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)"]
[]
["Forearm Stabilizer Exercises (10 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT"]
[20,"Reverse Arm Curls","15 - 20","2"]
[21,"Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 20","2"]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[null,null,"DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

{"sheet":"Strength-Power Endurance Workou","index":4,"n_rows":52,"n_cols":9,"rows_kept":52,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[51,2,51,5],[0,0,1,8],[2,0,2,8],[5,0,5,8],[6,0,6,1],[6,2,6,3],[44,0,44,3],[46,0,47,8],[49,0,49,8],[18,1,18,3],[16,0,16,3],[19,1,19,3],[21,0,21,3],[22,1,22,3],[27,0,27,1],[41,0,41,1],[3,0,3,8],[4,0,4,8],[32,0,32,1],[17,1,17,3],[7,0,7,3]]}
["\"Advanced\" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Strength/Power-Endurance Workout"]
[]
[]
["WORKOUT GOALS: Improve maximum cability during 20 second to 2 minute bursts of climbing/training with brief rest intervals. Develop greater strength-power endurance specifically targeting the anaerobic lactic & aerobic energy systems."]
[]
["Workout with Climbing (2.5 - 3.5 hours)"]
[null,null,"SUGGESTED REPS & SETS",null,"DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE"]
["Progressive, General-to-Specific Warm-up Activity (~30 miuntes)"]
[1,"5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity"]
[2,"1 set of bodyweight pull-up -- do 1/2 of estimated maximum reps at BW"]
[3,"5 - 10 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering"]
[4,"5  minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching"]
[5,"1 set of Scapular Pull-ups 8 - 12 reps"]
[6,"1 set of Power Pull-ups (chest bump) 8 - 12 reps"]
[7,"1 set of sub-maximal weighted pull-ups (4 - 8 reps with 10 - 20 lb weight belt)"]
[]
["On-the-Wall Power/Strength-Enduance Training (60 - 90 minutes)",null,null,null,"ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS"]
[8,"3 - 5 near-maximal roped gym routes (Rest 10 minutes between roped climbs)"]
["9a","4x4 Bouldering Protocal (strict…with proper rest intervals, per TFC book), or…."]
["9b","HIT Strip System AE Protocal, per TFC book (do 9a or 9b, not both)"]
[]
["Finger Flexor Strength/Power-Endurance Exercises (30 - 45 minutes)",null,null,null,"WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
["10a","3 - 5 sets of Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters (hang 30\"/rest 30\" on good holds), or…."]
["10b","System Wall \"Repeaters\" (30 - 60 seconds per set), or….",null,"3 - 5 sets"]
["10c","HIT Strip System AE Protocol (30 - 60 seconds per set)","1 - 2 sets/grip","5 - 10 sets"]
[11,"Small rung ladder laps (no skips) -- up & down = 1 lap","1 lap per set","3 - 6 sets"]
[]
["Pull-muscle exercises (10 - 20 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
["12a","Frenchies (~45 - 90 seconds per set), or….","2 - 4 \"cycles\"/set"," 2 - 4"]
["12b","Jug- or large open hand hold \"Ladder Laps\" on campus board (30 - 60 sec.)","30 - 60 secs/set","2 - 4"]
["12c","Power Pull-up (chest bump) Intervals (each interval set is 1 minute total)","3 - 6 pull-ups/set","5 - 10"]
[]
["Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS"]
[13,"Windshield Wipers","6 - 12","1 - 3"]
[14,"Supermans","16 - 20","1 - 2"]
[15,"Front Levers","2 - 5","2 - 3"]
[16,"Mountain Climber Plank","20 - 30",1]
[17,"TRX/Sling Training \"Marine Core\"","6 - 12","1 - 2"]
[18,"Feet-up Crunches","50 - 100","1 - 2"]
[null,"(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)"]
[]
["Forearm Stabilizer Exercises (10 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT"]
[19,"Reverse Arm Curls","15 - 20","2"]
[20,"Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 20"," 2"]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[null,null,"DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

{"sheet":"Aerobic Endurance Workout","index":5,"n_rows":50,"n_cols":9,"rows_kept":50,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[7,0,7,3],[49,2,49,5],[0,0,1,8],[2,0,2,8],[5,0,5,8],[6,0,6,1],[6,2,6,3],[3,0,3,8],[4,0,4,8],[44,0,45,8],[47,0,47,8],[16,0,16,3],[17,1,17,3],[18,1,18,3],[19,1,19,3],[26,0,26,3],[23,0,23,1],[39,0,39,1],[20,1,20,3],[21,1,21,3],[30,0,30,1]]}
["\"Advanced\" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Aerobic Endurance Workout"]
[]
[]
["WORKOUT GOALS: Improve technique & skill and increase climbing stamina (capacity), specifically targeting the aerobic energy system with high-volume, moderate-intensity continuous and interval climbing/training."]
[]
["Workout with Climbing (3.0 - 4.5 hours)"]
[null,null,"SUGGESTED REPS & SETS",null,"DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE"]
["Progressive, General-to-Specific Warm-up Activity (~30 miuntes)"]
[1,"5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity"]
[2,"1 set of bodyweight pull-up -- do 1/2 of estimated maximum reps at BW"]
[3,"5 - 10 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering"]
[4,"5  minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching"]
[5,"2 set of Scapular Pull-ups 8 - 12 reps"]
[6,"1 set of Power Pull-ups (chest bump) 6 - 12 reps"]
[7,"1 set of sub-maximal weighted pull-ups (4 - 8 reps with 10 - 20 lb weight belt)"]
[]
["90 - 150 minutes (combined climbing & belaying) Submaximal Roped Climbing (NO deep pump & NO climbing to failure--Important!)",null,null,null,"ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS"]
[8,"With a partner, alternate climbing laps on \"moderate\" roped routes (2 to 4 number grades below your redpoint limit). "]
[null,"NOTES: 1. To properly target the aerobic energy system you should only get a light to moderate pump (6 to 8 on a scale of 1 to 10)"]
[null,"2. Judge your workout by \"mileage\", not pump--build up to 1,500 feet of moderate climbing per session! If you fall, do easier routes."]
[null,"3. Protocal: Alternate (with partner) doing 15 - 20 minutes of easier climbing OR moderately difficult climbs lasting 3 - 5 minutes."]
[null,"4. Alternatively, you can use a Treadwall…climbing intervals on large holds, but resting frequently to keep pump btwn \"6\" - \"8\" out of 10."]
[]
["Submaximal pull-muscle exercise  (10 - 20 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[9,"Pull-up Intervals (exercise for 8 - 12 seconds & rest for 48 - 52 seconds)","3 - 6 pull-ups/set"," 10 - 20 sets "]
[]
["Finger Flexor Aerobic-Endurance Exercises (0 - 30 minutes)",null,null,null,"WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[10,"Short-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters (hang 10\"/rest 20\" on good holds) - OPTIONAL","6 hangs/ set","3 - 5 sets"]
[null,"(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)"]
[]
["Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS"]
[11,"Windshield Wipers","6 - 12","1 - 2"]
[12,"Supermans","16 - 20","1 - 2"]
[13,"Front Levers","2 - 5","1 - 2"]
[14,"Mountain Climber Plank","20 - 30",1]
[15,"TRX/Sling Training \"Marine Core\"","6 - 12","1 - 2"]
[16,"Feet-up Crunches","50 - 100","1 - 2"]
[null,"(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)"]
[]
["Forearm Stabilizer Exercises (10 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT"]
[17,"Reverse Arm Curls","15 - 20",2]
[18,"Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 20",2]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[null,null,"DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

{"sheet":"Antagonist-Stabilizer Workout","index":6,"n_rows":36,"n_cols":9,"rows_kept":36,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[35,2,35,5],[30,0,31,8],[33,0,33,8],[0,0,1,8],[2,0,2,8],[3,0,3,8],[4,0,4,8],[5,0,5,8],[7,0,7,3],[11,0,11,1],[23,0,23,1]]}
["\"Advanced\" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Stabilizer/Antagonist Workout"]
[]
[]
["WORKOUT GOALS: Increase strength and endurance in the vital stabilizer & antagonist muscles of the arms, shoulders, and torso."]
["NOTE: If you are a serious climber, then this is your most important workout--do it twice per week!"]
["Workout with Climbing (1.0- 1.5 hours)"]
[null,null,null,null,"DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE"]
["General Warm-up Activity, including Mobility/Flexibility Exercises (~10 miuntes)"]
[1,"5  minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity"]
[2,"5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching"]
[]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (30 - 60 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[3,"Shoulder Press","15 - 20","1 - 2"]
[4,"Bench Press","12 - 16","1 - 2"]
[5,"Finger band extensions","15 - 20","1 - 2"]
[6,"Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 20",2]
[7,"TRX/Sling Trainer \"Ts\"","6 - 12",2]
[8,"TRX/Sling Trainer \"Ys\"","6 - 12",2]
[9,"Dips","8 - 15","2 - 3"]
[10,"Dumbbell External Rotation","15 - 25","2 - 3"]
[11,"Dumbbell Internal Rotation","15 - 25","2 - 3"]
[null,"(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)"]
[]
["Total Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes) - OPTIONAL",null,"REPS","SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[12,"Sumo Deadlift (30 - 60 lb dumbbell or kettlebell)","10 - 15",1]
[13,"Barbell Squat","5 - 8",2]
[14,"Barbell Deadlift","3 - 6","2 - 3"]
[null,"(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)"]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[null,null,"DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]