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{"sheet":"Exercise Directory","index":0,"n_rows":36,"n_cols":23,"rows_kept":36,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[23,12,23,22],[25,12,25,22],[24,12,24,22],[31,0,31,6],[32,0,32,6],[31,8,31,10],[33,0,33,6],[35,1,35,6],[0,0,1,22],[3,0,3,2],[28,0,29,22],[3,16,3,18],[3,20,3,22],[8,13,8,14],[8,21,8,22],[13,21,13,22],[15,20,16,20],[15,21,16,22],[3,4,3,6],[3,8,3,10],[3,12,3,14],[30,8,30,10]]}
["Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing Program -- www.Training4Climbing.com (Copyright 2016 - All Rights Reserved)"]
[]
[]
["Antagonist and Stabilizer Training Exercises",null,null,null,"Core Training Exercise",null,null,null,"Limit-Strength Exercises",null,null,null,"Power-Training Exercises",null,null,null,"Strength/Power-Endurance Training Exercises",null,null,null,"Local and Generalized Aerobic Training Exercises "]
["Wrist & Forearm Stabillizers","REPS","SETS",null,"Anterior Core","REPS","SETS",null,"Finger Flexors","REPS","SETS",null,"Finger Flexors","REPS","SETS",null,"Finger Flexors","REPS","SETS",null,"Local/Climbing-Specific Aerobic Endurance","REPS","SETS"]
["Column1","Column2","Column3","Column32","Column4","Column5","Column6"]
["Band Finger Extension","15 - 25","1 - 2",null,"Feet-Up Crunches","25 - 100","2",null,"Limit Bouldering","1 - 4 tries/prob","3 -7 problems",null,"One-Arm Traversing","6 - 12 moves","2 - 3",null,"Short-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters","6 - 12","3 - 5",null,"ARC Traversing - Recovery Climbing (RPE: 4 to 6)","15 - 30 min.",1]
["Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 25","2 - 3",null,"Hanging Knee Lifts","15 - 20","1 - 3",null,"Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Extension","10 - 20 sec.","2016-02-05",null,"One-Arm Lunging","6 - 12 moves","2 - 3",null,"Bouldering 4x4s",4,4,null,"Submaximal Route Intervals  (RPE: 6 to 8)","2-4 min/route","10 - 20"]
["Pronators","20 - 25",2,null,"Mountain Climber Plank","20 - 50","1 - 2",null,"Hypergravity Bouldering","1 - 3 reps/prob","2 - 7 problems",null,"Campus Board (CB) “Bumps”","2 - 4 sets each side",null,null,"Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters",4,"3 - 5",null,"Climb All Day","many routes"]
["Reverse Arm Curl","15 - 20","1 - 2",null,"1-Arm Elbow & Side Plank","10 - 25","1 - 2",null,"“Minimum Edge” Hangs","5 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"CB Laddering (no skips, smallish rungs)","up only","3 - 10",null,"HIT System—S/P-Endurance Protocol","30 - 90 sec.","6 - 12",null,"Fingerboard Moving Hangs","5 - 10 min.","1 - 3"]
["Wrist Extension Isometric","45 - 90 sec.",2,null,"TRX “Marine Core”","5 - 12","2 - 3",null,"Max-Weight Hangs “10-Second”","5 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"CB “Switch Hands”","6 - 12 moves","2 - 5",null,"System Wall Repeaters","30 - 60 sec.","4 - 12",null,"Campus Board or System Wall “Hand Play”","3 - 5 min.","3 - 6"]
["Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Ext.","10 - 20 sec.","3 - 5",null,"Windshield Wipers","6 - 12","2 - 3",null,"Max-Weight Hangs “7-53” Protocol","3 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"CB Double Dynos  (smallish rungs) ","6 - 12 moves","2 - 5",null,"Small-Rung Ladder Laps (No Skips)","30 - 60 sec.","2 - 5",null,"Threshold Intervals  (RPE: 7 to 8.5 out of 10)","3 - 5 min.","3 - 8"]
["Rotator Cuff & Scap Stabilizers","REPS","SETS",null,"Posterior Core","REPS","SETS",null,"HIT System—Max-Strength Protocol","8 - 15","6 - 12",null,"HIT System Pinch Hold Double Dynos","3 - 6 moves","2 - 3",null,"Arms & Torso","REPS","SETS",null,"Generalized Aerobic Training","REPS","SETS"]
["DB Internal Rotation","20 - 25",2,null,"Superman","20 - 25",2,null,"Heavy Finger Rolls","3 - 8","3 - 5",null,"Arms & Torso","REPS","SETS",null,"Pull-Up Intervals","~5","10 - 20",null,"Steady State Aerobic Training  (RPE: 6 to 8)","15 - 30 min."]
["DB External Rotation","20 - 25",2,null,"Reverse Plank","20 - 60 sec.","2 - 3",null,"Pinch Ball Hangs","3 hangs/set","2 - 5",null,"Big-Move Boulder Problems","4 - 8 moves","3 - 8",null,"Big-Holds, Big-Move 4x4s",4,4,null,"Interval Training  (RPE: 8 to 9)","30 - 60 each","6 - 10"]
["Sling Trainer “Ts”","10 - 20",2,null,"Reverse Mtn. Climber Plank","8 - 15","1 - 2",null,"Arms & Torso","REPS","SETS",null,"Power Pull-Up (Chest-Bump)","5 - 12","1 - 3",null,"Route Intervals","3 - 4 routes","1 - 3",null,"High-Volume Generalized Aerobic Training (big wall and alpine climbers only)","45 - 120 min."]
["Sling Trainer “Ys”","10 - 20",2,null,"Side Hip Raises","10 - 20",2,null,"Weighted Pull-Ups","4 - 8","3 - 6",null,"Gym Rope Climbing","sprint to top","3 - 8",null,"Power Pull-Up Intervals (Chest-Bump)","3 - 5","5 - 10"]
["Shrugs","20 - 25",2,null,"Total/Posterior Chain","REPS","SETS",null,"Lat Pulldown","4 - 8","3 - 6",null,"CB “Laddering” (larger rungs w/ skips)","3 - 6 moves","3 - 10",null,"Frenchies","2 - 6 cycles","2 - 4"]
["Scapular Push-Up","15 - 20",2,null,"Sumo Deadlift","10 - 15",2,null,"System Wall “Isolation”","6 - 12","2 - 5",null,"Clap Pull-Ups","3 - 6","2 - 3",null,"Square Dance","45 - 90 sec.","2 - 4"]
["Scapular Pull-Up","6 - 12",2,null,"Dumbbell Snatch","5 - 8","2 - 3",null,"Square Pull-Ups","3 - 6 ","1 - 2",null,"Boulder Campusing (Monkey Biz)","3 - 8 moves","3 - 10",null,"Campus Ladder Laps on Big Holds","30 - 60 sec.","2 - 5"]
["Antagonist (Push) Muscles","REPS","SETS",null,"Barbell Deadlift"," 3 - 6","2 - 4",null,"Typewriters","3 - 6","1 - 2",null,"CB Double Dynos (Large Rungs","5 - 9 moves","1 - 5",null,"Gym Rope Interval","sprint to top","3 - 10"]
["Shoulder Press","15 - 20","1 - 2",null,"Barbell Squat","5 - 8","1 - 2",null,"Scapular Pull-Ups","6 - 12","2 - 3"]
["Bench Press/Push-Up","15 - 25","1 - 2",null,"Climbing-Specific Core","REPS","SETS",null,"Uneven-Grip Pull-Ups","3 - 5","2 - 3"]
["Tricep Pushdown","8 - 12",2,null,"Steep Wall Traversing","60 - 120 sec.","2 - 4",null,"Steep Wall “Lock-Offs” (aka Touches)","6 - 12","2 - 5",null,"RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale of exercise/climbing intensity and subjective exertion. "]
["Sling Trainer Pec Flys","8 - 12",2,null,"Steep Wall Cut & Catch","1 ascent","3 - 5 ascents",null,"One-Arm Lock-Offs","2 - 3","2 - 3",null,"See Training For Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (page 182) for a detailed coverage of \"training zones\" for climbers.  "]
["Dips","8 - 20","2 - 3",null,"Roof Lever-Ups  ","3 - 8","2 - 3",null,"One-Arm Pull-ups","1 - 5","2 - 5"]
[null,null,null,null,"Front Lever","2 - 5","2 - 3"]
[]
["For a detailed description of every exercise listed above, see Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017). Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Entry-level exercises shown in GREEN -- appropriate for all climbers.",null,null,null,null,null,null,null,"DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]
["Intermediate-level exercises shown in GOLD -- appropriate for experienced & advanced climbers."]
["Advanced-level exercises shown in PINK -- appropriate only for advanced/elite climbers."]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst","www.Training4Climbing.com"]

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["Beginner-level Program (with Climbing) [<5.11/V4 ability] "]
[]
[]
["Workout with Climbing (1.5 - 3.0 hours)"]
[null,null,"SUGGESTED REPS & SETS",null,"DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE"]
["15 minutes of general warm-up activity, including mobility/flexibility exercises."]
[1,"5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity"]
[2,"5 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering"]
[3,"5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching"]
[]
["20 - 40 minutes of submaximal climbing--focus on learning new skills, refining technique, and mental game.",null,null,null,"ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS","ROUTES/LAPS"]
[4,"Do 4 - 8 top-rope routes (1/2 to 2 number grades below maximum ability)"]
[null,"Do a second lap on an route that you struggle or fall on--striving for efficient movement and pace."]
[]
["10 - 30 minutes of strenuous bouldering or near-limit roped cimbing"]
[5,"Do 5 - 10 near-limit boulder problems….or do 2 - 4 near-limit roped routes."]
[]
["3 - 5 set of pull-muscle exercises (10 - 20 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[6,"Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps)",5,"3 - 5"]
[]
["4 - 8 sets of Core Exercises (10 - 15 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS"]
[7,"Hanging Knee Lifts","15 - 20","1 - 2"]
[8,"Supermans","16 - 20","1 - 2"]
[9,"Mountain Climber Plank","20 - 30","1 "]
[10,"Feet-up Crunches","25 - 50","2 - 3"]
[]
["5 - 10 sets of Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (20 - 40 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT"]
["* These can be done on a rest day from climbing; but don't skip--Important!"]
[11,"Shoulder Press","15 - 20","1 - 2"]
[12,"Bench Press","20 - 25","1 - 2"]
[13,"Finger band extensions","15 - 20","1 - 2"]
[14,"Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 25","1 - 2"]
[15,"Dumbbell External Rotation","20 - 25","1 - 2"]
[16,"Dumbbell Internal Rotation","20 - 25","1 - 2"]
[]
[null,"20 - 30 minutes Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
["* This can be done on a rest day from climbing. See Microcycle Tab (below)"]
[17,"Running, Rowing, Cycling (or other) - 2 to 4 days per week"]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
["DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

{"sheet":"Workout without Climbing","index":2,"n_rows":40,"n_cols":9,"rows_kept":40,"cut":false,"hidden":false,"merged":[[39,0,39,8],[37,0,37,8],[9,0,9,1],[0,0,1,8],[4,0,4,1],[4,2,4,3],[5,0,5,3],[2,0,2,8],[3,0,3,8],[14,0,14,1],[20,0,20,1],[21,0,21,3],[30,0,30,3],[34,0,35,8]]}
["Beginner-level Program (without climbing) [<5.11/V4 ability]"]
[]
[]
["Workout without Climbing - No Wall/Gym Available (1 - 2 .5 hours)"]
[null,null,"SUGGESTED REPS & SETS",null,"DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE","DATE"]
["10 - 20 minutes of general warm-up activity, including mobility/flexibility exercises."]
[1,"5 - 10 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity"]
[2,"5 - 10 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching"]
[]
["7 - 11 sets of finger flexor & pull-muscle exercises (30 - 50 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS","WT - REPS - SETS"]
[3,"Pull-ups (body weight -- do half of estimated max # of reps)","1/2 of BW Max",1]
[4,"Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps)",5,"3 - 5"]
[5,"Fingerboard Short-Duration Repeaters (bodyweight 10\"/30\" x 6)",6,"3 - 5"]
[]
["7 - 14 sets of Core Exercises 15 - 25 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS","REPS - SETS"]
[6,"Hanging Knee Lifts","15 - 20","2 - 4"]
[7,"Supermans","16 - 20","2 - 3"]
[8,"Mountain Climber Plank","20 - 30","1 - 3"]
[9,"Feet-up Crunches","25 - 50","2 - 4"]
[]
["5 - 10 sets of Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (20 - 40 minutes)",null,"REPS","SETS","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT","WEIGHT"]
["* These can be done on a rest day from climbing; but don't skip--Important! See Microcycle tab."]
[10,"Shoulder Press","15 - 20","1 - 2"]
[11,"Bench Press","20 - 25","1 - 2"]
[12,"Finger band extensions","15 - 20","1 - 2"]
[13,"Reverse Wrist Curls","15 - 25","1 - 2"]
[14,"Dumbbell External Rotation","20 - 25","1 - 2"]
[15,"Dumbbell Internal Rotation","20 - 25","1 - 2"]
[]
[null,"20 - 30 minutes Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
["* This can be done on a rest day from climbing. See Microcycle Tab (below)"]
[16,"Running, Rowing, Cycling (or other) - 2 to 4 days per week"]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
["DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]

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["MICROCYCLE #1"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #2"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #3"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #4"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["MICROCYCLE #5"]
["Training Activity","MONDAY","TUESDAY","WEDNESDAY","THURSDAY","FRIDAY","SATURDAY","SUNDAY"]
["Performance Climbing (Outside)"]
["Climbing (indoors)"]
["Climbing-Specific Exercises"]
["Core Exercises"]
["Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises"]
["Generalized Aerobic Conditioning"]
[]
["LONG-TERM PROGRAMMING & NOTES"]
["Program Focus: Learn climbing skills, refine technique, improve body composition, general conditioning, increase strength/endurance."]
["Notes:  Periodization not necessary. Repeat weekly microcycles indefinately, but take a 4- to 7-day break every 8 to 10 weeks."]
[]
[]
["See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com"]
[]
["Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE"]