Rock Climbing: VA, MD & WV – A Comprehensive Guide to 1,500+ Routes

Books-sidebar-RCguidesThe Mid-Atlantic of the United States abounds with superb rock climbing areas, including hidden gems far from the crowds. From the granite peaks of Old Rag Mountain to the miles of glowing Nuttall Sandstone in the New River Gorge, the states of Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland offer exciting and diverse climbing opportunities

Rock Climbing: Virginia, Maryland, and West Virginia is a one-of-its-kind tome to climbing in the Mid-Atlantic region. First released in 2001, the new full-color second edition is a must-have for any serious climber in this region. The guidebook covers the best-of-the-best, plus details to many smaller gems that have long been the secrets of the few “in-the-know.” This 350+ page guide includes over 20 areas, 1000+ routes, and 200+ maps, topos, and photos crafted with a back-of-hand knowledge that only a 35-year area veteran could produce.

Areas included in the guide:

Virginia: Old Rag Mountain, Great Falls, Hidden Rocks, Elizabeth Furnace, Crescent Rock, Iron Gate, and more!

Maryland: Carderock & Great Falls, Rocks State Park, Patapso Valley S.P., Annapolis Rock, Sugarloaf Mountain, and Harper’s Ferry (Maryland Heights).

West Virginia: Coopers Rock, Seneca Rocks, Summersville Lake, New River Gorge, The Meadow, Bozoo, and Franklin

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 A Climbers’ Guide to Bubba City – New River Gorge, WV

Bubba City is just one of the many crags that contribute to the New River Gorge’s world-class reputation. The cliffs at Bubba are not the highest in the gorge, but for the combination of easy access and high quality climbing in a pleasant setting, it is tough to beat Bubba City. The routes here range from 40- to 100-feet in length and are nearly vertical, although there are some steep sections and a few big roofs. The climbing is typically thin, technical, and will test your problem-solving abilities, but many of the routes are also sustained and pumpy. There are numerous high-quality traditional lines such as Tasty Flake (5.8), Basic Bubba Carck (5.9), Fred Sandstone Flake (5.9+), Take Me To the River (10a), The Raging Tiger (10d), Little Creatures (10d), Face It Bubba (11a), Cumberland Blues (11b), Whamarête (11d R), Regatta de Blanc (12a), and Burning Down The House (12a/b). However, it’s the over 180 sport routes, from 5.5 to 5.13, that makes Bubba City really shine.

Consider that Bubba City now possesses more clip-ups than Summersville Lake, the only sport climbs in the Gorge at the modest grades of 5.5 to 5.8, over thirty 5.10 clip-ups, forty-five sport 5.11s, and more bolted 5.12s (48) than Kaymoor! Furthermore, classic sport climbs are found at all levels, not just at the “5.hard” grades. Just a few of the must-do, four-star sports routes are Daisy Cutter (5.7), Mrs. Field’s Folly (5.8), Hubba Bubba (5.9+), Badass Tattoo (10a), St. Pauli Girl (10b/c), Lieback and Enjoy It (10d), Tongulation (11a), Skinhead Grin (11b), Michelin Man Direct (11d), Reaches From Hell (11d), Likmé (12a), and the 20-foot roof L’Amour des Toits (12b). For the real hard man and woman, there are plenty more good lines up to 5.13b. Most outstanding are the wealth of routes between 5.10a and 5.12b, including nearly sixty 5.11 clip-ups and fifty 5.12 sport routes.

This guide was published in 2006. While there has since been a few minor trail/approaches changes, this book describes every route  at the area with detail and first-hand knowledge no other book possess. The book contains dozens of cliff topos, overview maps, and action photos, and at just 100 pages it’s a lightweight guide to take on your Bubba City adventures!

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