Category: Train Strategy

Podcast #113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 5, 2025 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

Limit Bouldering for Building Max Climbing Strengt...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Feb 17, 2025 | Train Body, Train Strategy

10 Tips for Climbing Better In Cold Weather

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 18, 2024 | Climbing 101, Train Strategy

Podcast #108 – 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The ...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Nov 11, 2024 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

Training Café #79 – Weekend Warrior Climbing...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 21, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Cafe Vodcast

Podcast #107: Tips for Preventing the Punt!

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

7 “Last-Minute” Keys to Climbing Your Best When It Counts!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 5, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Learn seven tips for calming the mind and strengthening the body as you prepare for an important...

Read More

Projecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Project!

by Eric Hörst | Jul 10, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

There’s no better feeling than the victory of a hard send. But behind every hard send is...

Read More

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Your Climbing Endurance

by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

Photo above: Jonathan Horst sending the relentlessly steep Southern Smoke (5.14c), Red River...

Read More

10 Do’s and Don’ts for Effective Redpoint Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jun 27, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

Projecting is all about long-term investment, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t...

Read More

Simple Formula for Success (In Anything!)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 30, 2024 | Train Mind, Train Strategy, Training Videos

Success is subjective. No one can define it for you—and that’s the beauty of it. But with...

Read More

“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons from Coach Eric Hörst)

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Age is an undeniable factor in training and sports performance, but the accumulating years don’t...

Read More

Power Bouldering for Dynamic Drive on the Wall

by Lucie Hanes | Dec 6, 2023 | Train Body, Train Strategy

Learn how to improve your dynamic output in climbing via power bouldering: a specific approach to...

Read More

Podcast #94 – The Road to Climbing 5.13a – PART 3

by Eric Hörst | Dec 4, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

What’s it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you’ll hear my...

Read More

Podcast #91 – Climbing Your First 5.13a (Ryan Devlin Consult #2)

by Eric Hörst | Sep 11, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

What’s it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you’ll hear my...

Read More

Tips for an Effective First Effort on a Climbing Project

by Lucie Hanes | Jun 2, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Don’t try to tackle a new project the same way you would an onsight attempt. If you’re...

Read More

T4C Podcast #87: The Making of a “Surprise” Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question “Why do we climb?”)

by Eric Hörst | May 9, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Learn some of the mental, technical, and tactical tips that helped bring to fruition an unplanned...

Read More

How Coach Eric Hörst (Quickly) Sent Kaleidoscope, 5.13c, After Injury

by Lucie Hanes | May 8, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Send Videos, Train Strategy

Coach Eric Hörst, 59, made the most of a finger injury by letting go of expectations, changing up...

Read More

1
...
2
...
3

training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
⁣
1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
⁣
Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
⁣
Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
⁣
The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
⁣
2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
⁣
This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
⁣
Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
⁣
3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
⁣
Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
⁣
If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
⁣
If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
⁣
➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
⁣
#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨 Training For Climbing

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨
Training For Climbing Podcast with Eric Horst and Thomas Cunningham

_____

- Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training, Podcast #116 -

Lean into this fast-paced podcast with veteran climber and function medicine specialist, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Learn how to train more effectively, reduce injury risk, pursue your genetic potential in climbing, and much more in this content-rich episode of the Training For Climbing podcast.

This past December, I recorded an interesting conversation with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Thomas is a veteran climber (with sends up to 5.14c), husband and father of three, and a medical doctor and researcher.

In recent years, Thomas and I have had a number of lively discussions on topics such as functional medicine, health optimization, effective training for middle-aged climbers, and more. It dawned on me one day: Why not record our conversations and release them as a podcast or video! Today, I share with you the first in, I hope, a series of performance-focused conversations between the two of us.

>>You can listen in and/or watch this interview on the T4C podcast (Apple podcasts and Spotify) or the T4C YouTube video.

👉Link in Our Bio!

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, k

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, know the importance of consuming enough dietary protein.

Cameron consumes Supercharged Collagen daily and pre-workout to support tendon and joint health. Post-workout and before going to sleep, Cam drinks Weapons Grade Whey Complex for support strength gains and resilience.

Learn more protocols to push your own limits at training for climbing.com

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS an

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS answered with Coach @eric_horst!

In episode 80 of Training Café, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective and personalized winter training program.

Plus, he answers view questions beginning around 26:00 mark.

➡️➡️ Listen to the full episode on YouTube or in @physivantage bio!

• @cam_horst admits that the first few sessions

•
@cam_horst admits that the first few sessions of his projects can be a bit uninspired—hanging on nearly every bolt—despite being a pro climber.

But after 15-plus years of climbing and actively studying the “art” of projecting, he has learned that the most important part of projecting is repeated failure. By embracing failure and fine-tuning his sequences, he often sees rapid progress.

Tap the link by @climbingmagazine in our bio to get his tips for sending your project.

✍️ @cam_horst
📸 @dantbaum @eric_horst

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast with Coach Hörst and Alex Megos covering Diet, Nutrition, performance and more! Find it on Megosclimbing on YouTube and Spotify and check out the Trainingforclimbing podcast for similar content!
・・・
Climbers diet and nutrition!

Our latest Podcast with @eric_horst is online on YouTube and Spotify now!!!
Listen to a conversation packed with information about training, nutrition and stories of the good old days.

@tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @yetieurope @petzl_official @karpos @scarpa_de @physivantage @frictionlabs @training4climbing

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a prolonged climbing trip, how do you balance maintaining high end strength/power while also staying fresh and maximizing outdoor days? There are a few circumstances where you can add in some training to stay in top strength. First, If you get a period of poor weather, rather than resting for multiple days, throw in a training session where you can focus on some areas not touched outside (perhaps bouldering, max fingers, isometrics, or power). Another option is at the end of a day where you did not get a full outdoor workout in, and are leading into a rest day. This gives the opportunity to finish your day with a challenging workout before a coming rest day. In this video Alex takes advantage of a rainy day at the Red River Gorge training max finger strength to stay primed for pulling hard on an outdoor project!
.
#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #trainingtips #climbing

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
.
#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Load More Follow on Instagram