Simple Formula for Extreme Success (In Anything!)
The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about where…
Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing
I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which…
10 Do’s & Don’ts for Effective Redpointing
Projecting is the process of working a route near, or beyond, your current limit with…
Video: Training for the Crux
Here’s a short video, featuring the powerful Alex Megos and climbing icon Jerry Moffatt, that…
Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
Last month I published a performance analysis of Margo Hayes’ incredible ascent of Biographie (5.15a/9a+).…
What You Can Learn from Margo Hayes’ Send of Biography (5.15a)!
While I frequently warn enthusiastic climbers of the downsides (and injury risk) of copying the…
Podcast #14: Performance Tips for Weekend Warriors
If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train…
Projecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Project!
For a foaming-at-the-mouth sport climber, nothing beats the feeling of going to work on a…
The “10-4 Rule” – A Guideline for Projecting (and Steady Improvement)
In a recent podcast interview with Neely at TrainingBeta, one topic she asked my opinion…
Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery method proved superior to…