Effective Climbing Workouts via the “SAID Principle” of Training
Learn the power of the SAID Principle! In working with hundreds of climbers over the years,…
Podcast #40: Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers
In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I’m happy to feature a…
Project-Specific Training with Indoor Simulator Problems
Route-simulator training indoors is one of the most effective ways to prepare for your outdoor…
Rotpunkt: Alex Megos and the Art of the Redpoint (Trailer)
Sport climbing videos are virtually ubiquitous (and often unremarkable), but when I heard about the…
Introducing Entralpi Finger Strength Testing and Training Force Plate
I’m happy to endorse the Entralpli Kickstarter project for a first-of-its-kind force plate for guiding…
Video: Geek Climber Q&A on Finger A2 Pulley Injury Recovery
Finger pulley tweaks are the most common climbing injury. No one is immune—not beginner, intermediate,…
The Skinny on Optimizing Body Composition to Improve Climbing Performance
Strength-to-weight ratio and power-to-weight ratio are important key performance indicators (KPIs) for climbers wanting to…
Podcast #39: Climbing Injuries – A Perfect Storm Brewing…
Causes of Common Overuse Injuries and What You Can Do To Prevent Them! This is…
Mastering Climbing Movement with Proprioception and “Process Feedback”
Mastering movement and climbing your best demands exquisite motor skills and highly nuanced use of…
Overcoming the Fear of Failure
Fear of failure wields tremendous power over climbers who possess an unbending need for success.…