Category: Training Articles

Training Videos

Training Cafe #83 – 5 Reasons Why Your Climbing Has Plateaued

by Eric Hörst | Mar 17, 2025 | Basic Training, Training Cafe Vodcast, Training Videos

In this video, Coach Hörst details 5 common reasons why climbers climbers hit a plateau. Coach...

Video: Effective Pinch-Grip Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Jan 14, 2025 | Train Body, Training Videos
Simple Formula for Success (In Anything!)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 30, 2024 | Train Mind, Train Strategy, Training Videos
Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength

by Eric Hörst | Sep 21, 2023 | Train Body, Training Videos

Climbing Mastery

Podcast #114 – Common Training Mistakes That May Be Limiting Your Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Apr 10, 2025 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts

The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability...

Podcast #50: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Mar 22, 2025 | Climbing Mastery, Motivation, Podcasts, Train Mind
T4C Podcast #109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (on All Things Performance!)

by Eric Hörst | Dec 13, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Body
Podcast #107: Tips for Preventing the Punt!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Basic Training

Podcast #112: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training & Performance with Dr. Thomas Cunningham

by Eric Hörst | Feb 4, 2025 | Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body

Lean into this fast-paced podcast with veteran climber and function medicine specialist, Dr....

Podcast #82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don’t Want to Make

by Eric Hörst | Dec 10, 2024 | Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body
Transitioning from Cragging Season to Training Season

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 16, 2024 | Basic Training, Train Body
6 Tips to Naturally Strengthen Your Immune System

by Eric Hörst | Dec 11, 2023 | Basic Training, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Climbing 101

10 Tips for Climbing Better In Cold Weather

by Eric Hörst | Dec 18, 2024 | Climbing 101, Train Strategy

Cold weather climbing can be dreamy…or a nightmare! One person’s “perfect send conditions” can be...

Video: Optimizing Climbing Shoe Fit for Comfort and Performance

by Eric Hörst | Nov 7, 2024 | Climbing 101, Instructional Videos
Podcast #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years

by Eric Hörst | Sep 5, 2024 | Climbing 101, Podcasts
Podcast #97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance

by Eric Hörst | Aug 25, 2024 | Climbing 101, Podcasts, Train Technique & Skills

Train Body

Training Café #84 – Weekday Training for Weekend Warriors!

by Eric Hörst | Apr 7, 2025 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this live coaching session Eric Hörst details best practices for weekday training in...

Limit Bouldering for Building Max Climbing Strength and Power

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 17, 2025 | Train Body, Train Strategy
Training and Nutritional Influence on Connective Tissue Strength & Injury Risk

by Eric Hörst | Jan 22, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body
Training Café #81 – Level Up Your Training in 2025!

by Eric Hörst | Jan 13, 2025 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

Train Mind

Podcast #113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up!

by Eric Hörst | Mar 5, 2025 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental,...

Podcast #111: Training, Climbing & Life Upgrades to Send 2025!

by Eric Hörst | Jan 7, 2025 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Training Articles
10 Mental Strategies to Improve Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jul 20, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind
“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons from Coach Eric Hörst)

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Nutrition & Recovery

Fueling for Sending with Amity Warme, Climbing Dietitian

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 31, 2025 | Athlete Spotlights, Nutrition & Recovery

In climbing, you get out what you put in. That applies not only to what you do in the gym, but...

The Truth About Creatine for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Mar 9, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, Training Articles
How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Nov 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Motivation

Podcast #95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness

by Eric Hörst | Jan 3, 2024 | Motivation, Podcasts, Train Mind

Do you want to level up in climbing…and across the board in your life? Many folks use the...

Train Technique & Skills

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Your Climbing Endurance

by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

Photo above: Jonathan Horst sending the relentlessly steep Southern Smoke (5.14c), Red River...

5 Tips for Improving Your Climbing Efficiency (and Climbing WAY Harder!)

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles
Climb More Creatively with Alex Megos’ Stretching Routine

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 3, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Technique & Skills

Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

by Eric Hörst | Apr 18, 2025 | The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Learn how to treat elbow pain associated with tight muscles and sore tendons, often the result of...

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Training Café #80 – Keys to Effective Winter Training & Your Questions Answered!

by Eric Hörst | Dec 9, 2024 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective...

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An Effective Approach to Climbing Training Through the Holidays!

by Eric Hörst | Dec 7, 2024 | Train Body

The holidays are a busy time of year for almost everyone. Learn a practical approach to training...

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5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Equal Better Climbing!

by Eric Hörst | Dec 2, 2024 | Train Body, Training Articles

While climbing remains a skill sport first and foremost, strength in tandem with skill is still an...

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Podcast #108 – 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!

by Eric Hörst | Nov 11, 2024 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

Quite often it’s the tiniest of things—tactics and strategy—that can make or break your...

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Training Café #79 – Weekend Warrior Climbing Tips

by Eric Hörst | Oct 21, 2024 | Train Strategy, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of the Training Café, Coach Hörst provides tips for weekend warriors wanting to...

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Finger Warm-Ups for Better Climbing (with Reduced Injured Risk)

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2024 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good send conditions to hit? Warm up right with...

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7 “Last-Minute” Keys to Climbing Your Best When It Counts!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 5, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Train Strategy

Learn seven tips for calming the mind and strengthening the body as you prepare for an important...

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Podcast #104: Kid Climbers: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Youth Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Sep 10, 2024 | Podcasts, Youth Training

Photo: Lisa Horst with sons, Jonathan (age 4) and Cameron (age 6) toproping at the Gunks, NY. In...

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Podcast #102: The Road to 5.13 – Part 4: Closing the Deal!

by Eric Hörst | Aug 9, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? (Or, first 5.10 or first 5.15 for that matter.) In...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
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1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
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Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
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Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
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The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
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2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
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This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
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Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
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3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
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Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
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If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
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If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
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➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
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#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨 Training For Climbing

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨
Training For Climbing Podcast with Eric Horst and Thomas Cunningham

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- Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training, Podcast #116 -

Lean into this fast-paced podcast with veteran climber and function medicine specialist, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Learn how to train more effectively, reduce injury risk, pursue your genetic potential in climbing, and much more in this content-rich episode of the Training For Climbing podcast.

This past December, I recorded an interesting conversation with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Thomas is a veteran climber (with sends up to 5.14c), husband and father of three, and a medical doctor and researcher.

In recent years, Thomas and I have had a number of lively discussions on topics such as functional medicine, health optimization, effective training for middle-aged climbers, and more. It dawned on me one day: Why not record our conversations and release them as a podcast or video! Today, I share with you the first in, I hope, a series of performance-focused conversations between the two of us.

>>You can listen in and/or watch this interview on the T4C podcast (Apple podcasts and Spotify) or the T4C YouTube video.

👉Link in Our Bio!

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, k

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, know the importance of consuming enough dietary protein.

Cameron consumes Supercharged Collagen daily and pre-workout to support tendon and joint health. Post-workout and before going to sleep, Cam drinks Weapons Grade Whey Complex for support strength gains and resilience.

Learn more protocols to push your own limits at training for climbing.com

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS an

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS answered with Coach @eric_horst!

In episode 80 of Training Café, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective and personalized winter training program.

Plus, he answers view questions beginning around 26:00 mark.

➡️➡️ Listen to the full episode on YouTube or in @physivantage bio!

• @cam_horst admits that the first few sessions

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@cam_horst admits that the first few sessions of his projects can be a bit uninspired—hanging on nearly every bolt—despite being a pro climber.

But after 15-plus years of climbing and actively studying the “art” of projecting, he has learned that the most important part of projecting is repeated failure. By embracing failure and fine-tuning his sequences, he often sees rapid progress.

Tap the link by @climbingmagazine in our bio to get his tips for sending your project.

✍️ @cam_horst
📸 @dantbaum @eric_horst

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast with Coach Hörst and Alex Megos covering Diet, Nutrition, performance and more! Find it on Megosclimbing on YouTube and Spotify and check out the Trainingforclimbing podcast for similar content!
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Climbers diet and nutrition!

Our latest Podcast with @eric_horst is online on YouTube and Spotify now!!!
Listen to a conversation packed with information about training, nutrition and stories of the good old days.

@tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @yetieurope @petzl_official @karpos @scarpa_de @physivantage @frictionlabs @training4climbing

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a prolonged climbing trip, how do you balance maintaining high end strength/power while also staying fresh and maximizing outdoor days? There are a few circumstances where you can add in some training to stay in top strength. First, If you get a period of poor weather, rather than resting for multiple days, throw in a training session where you can focus on some areas not touched outside (perhaps bouldering, max fingers, isometrics, or power). Another option is at the end of a day where you did not get a full outdoor workout in, and are leading into a rest day. This gives the opportunity to finish your day with a challenging workout before a coming rest day. In this video Alex takes advantage of a rainy day at the Red River Gorge training max finger strength to stay primed for pulling hard on an outdoor project!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #trainingtips #climbing

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

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