Category: Training Articles

Training Videos

Advanced Hangboard Training Techniques for Developing Finger Strength

by Eric Hörst | Sep 21, 2023 | Train Body, Training Videos

Take your targeted finger training to the next level. Learn a one-handed, advanced hangboard...

Project-Specific Training with Indoor Simulator Problems

by Eric Hörst | Jun 30, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Body, Training Videos
Simple Formula for Success (In Anything!)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 20, 2023 | Train Mind, Train Strategy, Training Videos
Video: Effective Pinch-Grip Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Sep 1, 2022 | Train Body, Training Videos

Climbing Mastery

5 Tips for Improving Your Climbing Efficiency (and Climbing WAY Harder!)

by Eric Hörst | Oct 16, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Climbing harder isn’t always about working harder. Learn five techniques to help improve...

10 Mental Strategies to Improve Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Oct 13, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind
6 Concentration Drills to Improve Your Climbing Focus

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 3, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind
3 Hangboard Tests to Gauge Your Climbing Ability

by Lucie Hanes | Jun 28, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Body

Basic Training

At-Home Exercises for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Aug 28, 2023 | Basic Training, Train Body

Climbing well isn’t all about time on the wall. If you can’t make it to the crag or...

Tips for (and Benefits of) Climbing Pregnant

by Eric Hörst | Aug 17, 2023 | Basic Training, Climbing 101
The Skinny on Optimizing Body Composition to Improve Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jun 19, 2023 | Basic Training, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Body, Training Articles
Podcast #82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don’t Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)

by Eric Hörst | Dec 17, 2022 | Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body

Climbing 101

Level-Up Your Warm-Up Climbs

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 31, 2023 | Climbing 101, Train Technique & Skills

Your warm-up doesn’t end the second you pull onto the wall. Learn how to make the most of...

Climbing 101: Learning to Climb Indoors

by Eric Hörst | Feb 27, 2023 | Climbing 101
Steep Route Techniques to Climb Harder (Video Analysis)

by Eric Hörst | Jun 26, 2020 | Climbing 101, Train Technique & Skills

Train Body

Limit Bouldering for Building Max Climbing Strength and Power

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 27, 2023 | Train Body, Train Strategy

Increase your strength and power this training season by including limit bouldering in your...

An Effective Approach to Climbing Training Through the Holidays!

by Eric Hörst | Nov 22, 2023 | Train Body
Podcast #93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Nov 7, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Body
5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Equal Better Climbing!

by Eric Hörst | Oct 30, 2023 | Train Body, Training Articles

Train Mind

Send Your Project Faster Using Beta Visualization

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 3, 2023 | Train Mind

If you’ve ever punted after completely blanking on your beta in the middle of the crux sequence,...

Reframe Your Thoughts to Revamp Your Climbing (and Life)

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 9, 2023 | Train Mind
Effective Goal Setting for Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Sep 25, 2023 | Motivation, Train Mind
Mastering Climbing Movement with Proprioception and “Process Feedback”

by Eric Hörst | Jun 6, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Train Mind, Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles

Nutrition & Recovery

Hydration Tips for Hot Crag Days

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 20, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery

Climbing well on hot days at the crag requires giving your body what it needs to withstand the...

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jul 16, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body
Podcast #89: How Often Should You “Rest Day” While on a Climbing Roadtrip

by Eric Hörst | Jul 11, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts

Motivation

“Belaytionship” Tips for Safe, Confident Climbing With Your Belayer

by Lucie Hanes | Aug 15, 2023 | Motivation, Train Technique & Skills

Climbing your best begins with trust—in yourself and in your belay partner. There’s nothing...

Train Technique & Skills

Climb More Creatively with Alex Megos’ Stretching Routine

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 3, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Technique & Skills

When it comes to the importance of flexibility in climbing, take it from a climber whose bones...

Develop Fantastic Footwork with Heel-Hook and Toe-Hook Technique

by Lucie Hanes | Sep 18, 2023 | Train Technique & Skills
Tall Beta: Hacks for Tall Climbers to Make the Most of Their Height

by Lucie Hanes | Aug 30, 2023 | Train Body, Train Technique & Skills

Transitioning from Cragging Season to Training Season

by Lucie Hanes | Nov 8, 2023 | Train Strategy

The end of one thing means the beginning of another. Embrace the climbing training season as an...

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Get Stronger One Arm (and Leg) at a Time: 4 Unilateral Strength Exercises for Climbers

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 27, 2023 | Train Body

Traditional strength training doesn’t always translate very well to climbing. Develop...

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10 Do’s and Don’ts for Effective Redpoint Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Oct 24, 2023 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

Projecting is all about long-term investment, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t...

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Podcast #92 – Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Climbing Medicine Symposium

by Eric Hörst | Oct 1, 2023 | Podcasts, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Gain some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish,...

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Podcast #91 – Climbing Your First 5.13a (Ryan Devlin Consult #2)

by Eric Hörst | Sep 11, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Strategy

What’s it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you’ll hear my...

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The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

by Eric Hörst | Sep 1, 2023 | Train Body, Training Articles

Learn how to develop stronger, more injury-proof shoulders with the scapular pull-up, a variation...

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Podcast #90: Training to Climb Your Best This “Send Season”!

by Eric Hörst | Aug 26, 2023 | Podcasts, Train Body

For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. Learn how to dial in your training to climb...

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Shorty Beta: Hacks for Short Climbers to Maximize Their Reach

by Lucie Hanes | Aug 21, 2023 | Train Body

Alright, shorties—no more excuses. Yes, we’ve got the “short” end of the stick...

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5 Training Tips to Climb Effectively

by Eric Hörst | Aug 7, 2023 | Train Body, Training Articles

Training for training’s sake alone won’t get you very far. But training with a purpose...

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Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Aug 3, 2023 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Youth Training

Young climbers often bring more excitement to the table than their developing bodies can handle....

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training4climbing

Expert climbing & training tips from renowned climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter

Finger strength might be a climber's bread and but

Finger strength might be a climber's bread and butter, but the wrists aren't far off. Build more resilient wrists to maximize your grip and the potential of your precious fingers. Learn how at the link in our bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #gripstrength #strengthtraining #climbingstrength #climbingtraining #upperbodystrength #wriststrength #fingerstrength

Distraction is the worst energy sucker. Maintainin

Distraction is the worst energy sucker. Maintaining concentration while you climb is a crucial skill to have in your quiver because it helps conserve energy while climbing and funnels all your focus into the situation at hand. Find five techniques for improving concentration—both on and off the wall—at the link in our bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #concentrationtraining #focustraining #focusbetter #concentratebetter #concentrationdrills #trainyourbrain #mentaltraining #focusstrategy #mentalstrength #mentalfitness #stayfocused #focusedtraining #climbingtraining

Climbing means different things to different peopl

Climbing means different things to different people. For some, it’s an engaging way to workout. For others, it’s a vehicle for life-changing experiences and adventures. Where does climbing fit in your life? Read on at the link in our bio to learn how to climb indoors as a first step to exploring just how far the sport can take you—or share with someone you want to go climbing with you!
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#trainingforclimbing #indoorclimbing #gymclimber #gymclimbing #climbinggym #boulderinggym #learntoclimb #climbingcoach #beginnerclimber

Regular ol' pull-ups are great and all, but there'

Regular ol' pull-ups are great and all, but there's only so many you can do without losing valuable training stimulus by doing the same thing over and over again. Change up your pull-up game to break through upper-body strength barriers. Try these four variations on the classic pull-up. Learn them all at the link in our bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #pullupbar #pullups #doapullup #pulluptraining #strengthtraining #upperbodyworkout #upperbodystrength #shoulderstrength

The holidays are a busy time of year for almost ev

The holidays are a busy time of year for almost everyone, and the madness is only just beginning. Prepare for the chaos ahead of time with this practical approach to training through the holiday season via a healthy balance between time at the gym and time celebrating.
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#trainingforclimbing #climbingtraining #trainthroughtheholidays #trainingseason #trainingplan #climbingtrainingplan #climbingcoach #trainingtips #climbingtips

In honor of Small Business Saturday, here's a shou

In honor of Small Business Saturday, here's a shoutout to our sister company: PhysiVāntage! Check out the story and mission behind Coach Hörst's passion project to supply the most pure, effective, and scientifically sound supplements for hardworking climbers. Learn more about PhysiVāntage at the link in our bio!
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#physivantage #smallbusinesssaturday #smallbusiness #supplements #climbingnutrition #fuelyourbody #sportsnutrition

If you find yourself feeling slow, heavy, or unmot

If you find yourself feeling slow, heavy, or unmotivated to climb today after yesterday's feast, then these excitation strategies will help rev your engine! Read up to power up at the link in our bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #excitation #getpsyched #energize #getenergized #sportspsychology #mentaltactics #mentaltraining #climbingtraining

Today's the day to fuel up BIG for your climbing g

Today's the day to fuel up BIG for your climbing goals! Climbers don't need to fear food; take it from pro climber and sports dietitian Amity Warme. Read up on how to fuel yourself best for climbing, today and everyday. Link in bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #sportsnutrition #sportsdietitian #fuelingforclimbing #fuelyourbody #eatbigdreambig #climbingnutrition

Finding the balance between work and life presents

Finding the balance between work and life presents more challenges for routesetters than almost anyone else. You can’t just clock in, clock out, and move on with your day if you expect to keep up with personal climbing goals as well. Learn how to make your work as a routesetter, training as a climber, and health—both physical and mental—exist in harmony with one another. Read at the link in our bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #routesetting #routesetter #climbingtraining #climbharder #trainingschedule

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