Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Yo...

Podcast #115: Training Strategy for the Next Grade...

Training Café #85 – Dealing with Injury (or ...

15 Bouldering Tips from Climbing Pros

Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Preha...

Podcast #114 – Common Training Mistakes That...

Podcasts

Podcast #50: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Mar 22, 2025 | Climbing Mastery, Motivation, Podcasts, Train Mind

What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make...

Podcast #113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up!

by Eric Hörst | Mar 5, 2025 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills
Podcast #112: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training & Performance with Dr. Thomas Cunningham

by Eric Hörst | Feb 4, 2025 | Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body
Podcast #111: Training, Climbing & Life Upgrades to Send 2025!

by Eric Hörst | Jan 7, 2025 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Training Articles

Training Videos

Training Cafe #83 – 5 Reasons Why Your Climbing Has Plateaued

by Eric Hörst | Mar 17, 2025 | Basic Training, Training Cafe Vodcast, Training Videos

In this video, Coach Hörst details 5 common reasons why climbers climbers hit a plateau. Coach...

Video: Effective Pinch-Grip Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Jan 14, 2025 | Train Body, Training Videos

Athlete Spotlights

Fueling for Sending with Amity Warme, Climbing Dietitian

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 31, 2025 | Athlete Spotlights, Nutrition & Recovery

In climbing, you get out what you put in. That applies not only to what you do in the gym, but...

How to Climb 5.13…Faster!

by Lucie Hanes | May 20, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights
“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons from Coach Eric Hörst)

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy
Amity Warme’s Inspiring Approach to Recovery From Pulley Rupture

by Lucie Hanes | Jan 26, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights

Training Café #84 – Weekday Training for Weekend Warriors!

by Eric Hörst | Apr 7, 2025 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this live coaching session Eric Hörst details best practices for weekday training in...

Read More

The Truth About Creatine for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Mar 9, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, Training Articles

(This is a minor update on an article first published here in 2015.) Photo: Alex Megos climbing...

Read More

Limit Bouldering for Building Max Climbing Strength and Power

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 17, 2025 | Train Body, Train Strategy

Increase your strength and power this training season by including limit bouldering in your...

Read More

Training and Nutritional Influence on Connective Tissue Strength & Injury Risk

by Eric Hörst | Jan 22, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Training hard only pays off when your body can adapt to the load so it can recover stronger. Learn...

Read More

Training Café #81 – Level Up Your Training in 2025!

by Eric Hörst | Jan 13, 2025 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst discusses way to level up your training in 2025!...

Read More

10 Tips for Climbing Better In Cold Weather

by Eric Hörst | Dec 18, 2024 | Climbing 101, Train Strategy

Cold weather climbing can be dreamy…or a nightmare! One person’s “perfect send conditions” can be...

Read More

training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨 . Episode 115 of the Tr

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨
.
Episode 115 of the Training for Climbing podcast is available today. This podcast features @thestruggleclimbingshow host Ryan Devlin and discusses his breakthrough of 13a, and the process of progressing beyond, including grad pyramids, planning and projecting! Find a link in the bio, or wherever you listen to podcasts.
.
#climb #trainingforclimbing #training

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy st

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy strength displays like this and wonder how to take a step towards getting there themselves. Surely it will take time (or a lifetime) to do this, but you’ll have to start on the hangboard. Everyone wants stronger fingers but few understands just how to do it right. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance from the article found in the link in bio!

・・・
My fat ass learning how to hang the @beastmakers 6mm edges 🫨 New Year’s resolution: strong fingers 🤞
.
#training#lifting#fitness#beastmaker#fingerboard#motivation#climbing#bouldering#trainingforclimbing

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeez

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeeze out every juice of performance, you may wonder what makes the pros so capable at doing this same thing. As you may expect, there are a handful of characteristics and tactics that make the pros, the pros… and you can adopt some yourself. Click the link in bio to hear about tapping into your potential and being like the best in a past but still pertinent episode of the training for climbing podcast!
.
#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow . Everyone has h

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow
.
Everyone has heard about building their pyramid, but what does that actually look like on an person to person basis, and how do you balance this with projecting?
・・・
In the recent Road to the Pyramid chat with Coach @eric_horst, I was reminded of the importance of aerobic training even in the “off season”... the lack of which I’ve definitely been feeling as I try longer routes this spring. For more of Eric’s sound wisdom and specific training protocols for route-climbing season, check out the full episode on Spotify, Apple, YouTube, or wherever your pod. Bonus stuff over on Patreon!

Have you checked in with yourself lately about you

Have you checked in with yourself lately about your goals in training and climbing? What about in your life beyond climbing? What’s your destination? How will you get there?
.
These questions get answered by Coach Hörst in a quick article and video. Learn about the process of success and how you can fit this formula into your goal! Click the link in Bio to read about it.
.
#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tacti

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tactics can only be learned through trial and may be extremely impactful towards your performance. Although the weather is getting warmer out, it is never too late to stay on top of your high end performance strategies. Check it out more in depth in the link in bio.
.
#trainingforclimbing #climbing #training

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼 30

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼

30 one arm pull ups:
• 1 rep with +15kg
• 2 reps with +9kg
• 3 reps with +6kg
• 4 reps with +3kg
• 5 reps with +0kg
(+100 two arm pull ups in 10min later on).

#trainingforclimbing

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
⁣
1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
⁣
Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
⁣
Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
⁣
The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
⁣
2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
⁣
This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
⁣
Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
⁣
3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
⁣
Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
⁣
If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
⁣
If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
⁣
➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
⁣
#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

Load More Follow on Instagram