Category: Athlete Spotlights

Fueling for Sending with Amity Warme, Climbing Dietitian

by Lucie Hanes | Mar 31, 2025 | Athlete Spotlights, Nutrition & Recovery

In climbing, you get out what you put in. That applies not only to what you do in the gym, but...

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How to Climb 5.13…Faster!

by Lucie Hanes | May 20, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights

Almost any fit person can reach 5.13 given enough time, effort, and intention. But life...

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“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons from Coach Eric Hörst)

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Age is an undeniable factor in training and sports performance, but the accumulating years don’t...

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Amity Warme’s Inspiring Approach to Recovery From Pulley Rupture

by Lucie Hanes | Jan 26, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights

If there’s one guarantee in sports, it’s that injuries will come for us all at some...

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Adrian Vanoni Keeps It Simple to Send 5.14 Cracks

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 20, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights

Adrian Vanoni sent Cobra Crack and Prayer for a Friend, both iconic routes in the crack climbing...

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Climb More Creatively with Alex Megos’ Stretching Routine

by Lucie Hanes | Oct 3, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Technique & Skills

When it comes to the importance of flexibility in climbing, take it from a climber whose bones...

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How Jordan Cannon Trained to Send the Trango Tower

by Lucie Hanes | Sep 14, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights

Jordan Cannon and partners Matt Segal and Jesse Huey made the second successful ascent of Cowboy...

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How Tyler Thompson Masters the Art of Sending Quickly

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 10, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights

PhysiVantage athlete Tyler Thompson juggles his studies in physics with taking down some of the...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
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1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
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Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
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Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
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The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
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2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
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This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
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Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
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3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
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Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
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If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
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If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
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➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
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#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨 Training For Climbing

🚨NEW PODCAST DROPPED🚨
Training For Climbing Podcast with Eric Horst and Thomas Cunningham

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- Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training, Podcast #116 -

Lean into this fast-paced podcast with veteran climber and function medicine specialist, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Learn how to train more effectively, reduce injury risk, pursue your genetic potential in climbing, and much more in this content-rich episode of the Training For Climbing podcast.

This past December, I recorded an interesting conversation with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. Thomas is a veteran climber (with sends up to 5.14c), husband and father of three, and a medical doctor and researcher.

In recent years, Thomas and I have had a number of lively discussions on topics such as functional medicine, health optimization, effective training for middle-aged climbers, and more. It dawned on me one day: Why not record our conversations and release them as a podcast or video! Today, I share with you the first in, I hope, a series of performance-focused conversations between the two of us.

>>You can listen in and/or watch this interview on the T4C podcast (Apple podcasts and Spotify) or the T4C YouTube video.

👉Link in Our Bio!

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, k

💪Hard-training climbers, like Cameron Hörst, know the importance of consuming enough dietary protein.

Cameron consumes Supercharged Collagen daily and pre-workout to support tendon and joint health. Post-workout and before going to sleep, Cam drinks Weapons Grade Whey Complex for support strength gains and resilience.

Learn more protocols to push your own limits at training for climbing.com

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS an

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS answered with Coach @eric_horst!

In episode 80 of Training Café, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective and personalized winter training program.

Plus, he answers view questions beginning around 26:00 mark.

➡️➡️ Listen to the full episode on YouTube or in @physivantage bio!

• @cam_horst admits that the first few sessions

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@cam_horst admits that the first few sessions of his projects can be a bit uninspired—hanging on nearly every bolt—despite being a pro climber.

But after 15-plus years of climbing and actively studying the “art” of projecting, he has learned that the most important part of projecting is repeated failure. By embracing failure and fine-tuning his sequences, he often sees rapid progress.

Tap the link by @climbingmagazine in our bio to get his tips for sending your project.

✍️ @cam_horst
📸 @dantbaum @eric_horst

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast with Coach Hörst and Alex Megos covering Diet, Nutrition, performance and more! Find it on Megosclimbing on YouTube and Spotify and check out the Trainingforclimbing podcast for similar content!
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Climbers diet and nutrition!

Our latest Podcast with @eric_horst is online on YouTube and Spotify now!!!
Listen to a conversation packed with information about training, nutrition and stories of the good old days.

@tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @yetieurope @petzl_official @karpos @scarpa_de @physivantage @frictionlabs @training4climbing

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a prolonged climbing trip, how do you balance maintaining high end strength/power while also staying fresh and maximizing outdoor days? There are a few circumstances where you can add in some training to stay in top strength. First, If you get a period of poor weather, rather than resting for multiple days, throw in a training session where you can focus on some areas not touched outside (perhaps bouldering, max fingers, isometrics, or power). Another option is at the end of a day where you did not get a full outdoor workout in, and are leading into a rest day. This gives the opportunity to finish your day with a challenging workout before a coming rest day. In this video Alex takes advantage of a rainy day at the Red River Gorge training max finger strength to stay primed for pulling hard on an outdoor project!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #trainingtips #climbing

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

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