Improve Climbing Footwork with “Target Practice”
Great footwork makes climbing hard routes and boulders less strenuous! Learn an effective practice strategy…
Mastering Climbing Movement with Proprioception and “Process Feedback”
Mastering movement and climbing your best demands exquisite motor skills and highly nuanced use of…
How to Train Optimally…and Become a Maximum Climber
The pursuit of maximum climbing—whether you define it as realizing your climbing potential or maximizing…
Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
Last month I published a performance analysis of Margo Hayes’ incredible ascent of Biographie (5.15a/9a+).…
What You Can Learn from Margo Hayes’ Send of Biography (5.15a)!
While I frequently warn enthusiastic climbers of the downsides (and injury risk) of copying the…
Podcast #12: The “10-4 Rule” for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement
A question I’m often asked is….how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route,…
Twist Lock & Backstep Technique
The twist lock and backstep are the bread-and-butter moves of a steep-wall connoisseur. As the…
Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
When I began climbing over 25 years ago, the climbing season ended with the hounds…
How to Improve Climbing Efficiency (and Climb WAY Harder!)
The technical paramount is to climb with perfect economy. Make those two words, perfect economy,…
Slowing the Pump Clock – Strategies to Increase Climbing Endurance
Training to get stronger is a good thing. Climbing in ways that conserve energy and…