Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
Last month I published a performance analysis of Margo Hayes’ incredible ascent of Biographie (5.15a/9a+).…
What You Can Learn from Margo Hayes’ Send of Biography (5.15a)!
While I frequently warn enthusiastic climbers of the downsides (and injury risk) of copying the…
Podcast #12: The “10-4 Rule” for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement
A question I’m often asked is….how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route,…
“Target Practice” for Your Feet!
Many climbers find that their footwork deteriorates, and gets “noisy” and inefficient, when they begin to…
Twist Lock & Backstep Technique
The twist lock and backstep are the bread-and-butter moves of a steep-wall connoisseur. As the…
Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
When I began climbing over 25 years ago, the climbing season ended with the hounds…
How to Improve Climbing Efficiency (and Climb WAY Harder!)
The technical paramount is to climb with perfect economy. Make those two words, perfect economy,…
How to Train Optimally…and Become a Maximum Climber
The pursuit of maximum climbing—whether you define it as realizing your climbing potential or maximizing…
Slowing the Pump Clock
Three Strategies to Prevent the Pump Training to get stronger is a good thing. Climbing…