Browse: Home / Effective Gym Training Strategies for Route Climbing

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • Privacy Policy
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Lattice “Triple” Hangboard
    • Lattice “Mini Bar”
    • Lattice “QUAD” Pinch Block
    • Lattice Heavy Roller – Forearm Training for Climbers
    • Lattice Training – Lifting Pin (aka “Loading Pin”)
    • Lattice Flex Mat – Yoga & Stretching Training
    • Lattice Training “Micro Holds”
    • Lattice Mega Bar – Portable Hangboard for Climbers
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Effective Gym Training Strategies for Route Climbing

Posted by Eric Hörst on November 4, 2022 in Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles | 5,377 Views | Leave a response
564   
60
Shares

Carlos Traversi and Kevin Jorgeson flying up routes while gym training at Vertical Endeavors, Glendale Heights, IL.
Carlos Traversi and Kevin Jorgeson flying up routes while gym training at Vertical Endeavors, Glendale Heights, IL.

Gym access means that climbers no longer have to hibernate all winter long until the sun comes out and the rock dries. Use the off-season wisely to build strength, power, and technique with these gym training strategies for route climbing.

(This article was originally published in February 2015.)

When I began climbing over 25 years ago, the climbing season ended with the hounds of winter, and the only “training for climbing” consisted of pull-ups, running, and some free-weight exercises. It was a pretty ineffective routine that left most of us feeling quite rusty come the spring. Fortunately, indoor walls have made climbing a year-round activity, allowing enthusiasts to improve rather than regress in strength and ability throughout the colder months.

No doubt, joining a commercial climbing gym or building a home bouldering wall is the single best investment you can make toward improving your climbing. However, effective indoor training means doing more than just climbing with a group of friends. There are more intentional practice strategies you can leverage while climbing indoors that translate to greater economy of movement and climbing ability when you return outdoors in the spring. Furthermore, use of these practice techniques will enhance your learning of skills, improve your climber’s mindset, and increase your sport-specific strength.

Downclimbing routes

When leading or toproping while gym training, it’s rare that I climb a route to the top and lower off without trying to downclimb as much of the route as possible. There are benefits to this practice, beyond the obvious one of doubling the pump. First, in knowing that you plan to downclimb a route, you stay more observant and focused on the way up. Downclimbing also demands intense concentration on footwork, so the practice can help improve this common weakness among climbers.

Initially, you’ll find downclimbing to be difficult, awkward, and very pumpy. But that’s the modus operandi when first attempting anything new that’s worthwhile (read “challenging”). As your hold recognition improves and you learn to relax while reversing the route, you’ll find downclimbing often feels easier than ascending in the first place. This is because your eccentric (lowering) strength is greater than your concentric (pulling) strength. Plus, leading with the feet while downclimbing means learning to maximally weight them and conserve energy. All these factors make downclimbing a killer drill not to be overlooked by any serious climber!

Speed Training

When the rock gets steep and the moves hard, there’s nothing more important than picking up the pace. Climbing quickly is primarily a function of skill, not strength or power (we’re not talking about lunging wildly up a route). In fact, the less strength and endurance you possess, the more important this skill becomes.

To begin with, it’s important to note there’s no benefit to climbing faster if your technique degrades and you botch sequences. Therefore, practice speed climbing on routes you’ve already wired or climbs well below your maximum ability. Climb several laps on the route, resting between attempts, with each incrementally faster than the previous. Attempt to climb about 10% faster on each successive lap, but back off the accelerator at the first sign your technique is suffering.

Perform this drill while gym training a few times a week for several months, and you’ll find yourself naturally moving faster when climbing onsight or redpoint at the crags. This new skill alone could push your redpoint ability a full number grade higher over the course of a single season–a much greater gain than you’d ever achieve from strength training alone!

Other smart training drills

Here are a couple other drills to incorporate into your gym training for climbing program.

  • First Touch: This drill sharpens pre-climb visualization skills and on-route decision-making abilities to reduce the number of wrong moves (and wasted energy) when onsight climbing. The drill requires you to use each handhold in the exact way that you first touch it. No readjusting or regripping…unless you fall!
  • Tracking: Tracking is a type of elimination drill where the feet are restricted to using only the exact holds used by the hands. This difficult exercise develops a variety of important skills, including high-stepping, hand-foot matches, and balanced stand-ups. Use this tracking drill on routes that are two to three number grades below your maximum ability.

Related Articles: 

  • Dealing with an “Off” Day at the Climbing Gym
  • Benefits of “Crag Day” Training at the Climbing Gym
  • Winter Gym Training Tips
  • Gym Rope Training for Higher Power
  • Video: Rock Stars Train at Sharma Gym

Copyright © 2000–2022 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.


564   
60
Shares
564  
Posted in Train Technique & Skills, Training Articles | Tagged indoor climbing, indoor climbing drills, technique training

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Shop Now >>

Beat the Pump with Endure X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Vegan BCAA & Electrolyte Supplement

FLOW bcaa electrolyte physivantage

Support muscle function and performance through long workouts or days of climbing.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PhysiVāntage Europe!

physivantage nutrition europe

Attention UK & EU climbers! You can now buy PhysiVāntage nutrition from the EPIC-TV shop!

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Supercharge Your Climbing!

https://trainingforclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Final-Climbers-ad-hook-2-v1.mp4

Privacy Policy

https://trainingforclimbing.com/privacy-policy/

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

  • Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    301719 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

    198816 views / Posted May 14, 2021
  • 4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    185636 views / Posted November 21, 2022
  • The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    155960 views / Posted September 2, 2020
 
 

©2021 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)