Eric talks extensively about Daniel Woods’ commitment to and FA of “Return of the Sleepwalker” V17. Also covered in the episode is performance nutrition–specifically Eric addresses diet considerations for performance climbing, as well as nutrition for recovery. Learn about Daniel Woods’ choice for performance nutrition (PhysiVantage) below.

RUNDOWN:

1:00​​ – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
2:30​ – Shoutout to Daniel Woods and his incredible effort on Return of the Sleepwalker, V17 (first in the world?
3:40​​​ ​– Sleepwalker V16, FA’d by PhysiVantage athlete, Jimmy Webb
5:00​​​​ – Sleepwalker is solid V16
5:45​ – The linkup, which became Return of the Sleepwalker
6:45​​​ – Daniel dedicated the last 3 months of his life to sleepwalker; full “insanity”
7:50​ – The relatable process of projecting (regardless of the grade)
8:35​​ ​– “Pro” climbing and compensation
9:20​​​ – The unknown outcome of projecting; doubt and trusting the process
10:50​​​ – Nutrition for performance is highly personalized; no real cookie cutter approach
12:00​ – Mentally and physically, we’re ALL different!
13:00​ – Game day diet for advanced climbers ​
13:45​ – Every fine nuance counts when you’re climbing near your limit
14:30​ – What Eric drinks at the crag
15:30​ – Snacking at the crag; what’s best for your body?
16:30​ – One food that lots of pro climbers eat…
17:15​ – Consumption of protein powders and collagen
18:45​ – Crag eating habits and snack suggestions
20:00​ – Eating for recovery
22:30​ – Evening meal
24:15​ – Make sure you get your protein! (Weapons-Grade Whey Protein)
28:00​ – Calorie to protein ratio; finding the middle zone!
30:30​ – Everyone’s ideal diet is different!

********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********

33:18​ – When projecting (3-4 goes), I do very little breakfast (just collagen), then 2-3 100KCal bars (carbs), then protein bar at the end, then main meal at home. What do you think?
36:46​ – What are your thoughts on a light breakfast? Will last night’s carbs be enough?
41:22​ –  ​​What is the current consensus on electrolytes for performance while climbing?
45:31​​ – Would you recommend your newer or older books? 
47:20​ ​– I broke my right ring finger (including the PIP joint) last week. I probably can’t climb for 4-6 weeks. Any recommendations?
49:54​ – Any thoughts on carb timing in relation to climbing performance and weight? I’ve done some experimenting with lower carbs and more cardio in days leading up to performance.
55:15​ – I have been climbing 10 years and never trained. I’ve climbed 5.12d/5.13a. I recently started training, but I cannot hang on a 20mm edge. Should I use minimum edge protocol or max hangs?
56:51​ – Is it better to use a counterweight or have feet on the floor and an analog scale?
57:20​ – Do you monitor your macros? If so, what do you find best for each in terms of grams?
59:25​ – What negative effects – if any – come from overconsumption of protein if it’s not causing a caloric surplus?
1:03:02​ – Amino acids vs. protein?
1:05:16​ – What does a typical day of eating lo0ok like during the week? Any striking differences in meal timing, micro targets, and macro nutrient distributions?
1:11:25​ – You mentioned taking whey protein in the evening. I’ve been told to use it during the day and casein before bed because it digests slower. What’s your take on this?
1:13:05​ – What’s your recommendation for overload problems like tennis elbow on longer trips (2-3 weeks somewhere)?
1:16:10​ – Be healthy, eat well, climb strong!

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THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

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