In Training Café #38, Eric Horst dives into the first World Cup competition since COVID, optimal rest intervals between boulder and redpoint climbing attempts, the health benefits of eating dark chocolate, and YOUR QUESTIONS answered!
1:20 – We’ll meet here every other Monday (twice a month)!
1:45 – Grab your coffee, and let’s sip together!
2:50 – Shoutout to Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret who won gold at the first World Cup this year! 3:30 – World Cup Finals Recap – special shoutout to American climber, Natalia Grossman on bronze!
6:00 – Main topic today: optimal timing and attempts for red-pointing or bouldering
7:30 – As you become more advanced, it’s important to pay closer attention to nuance (rest, recovery, timing, attempts)
8:30 – Some rough rules of thumb
9:30 – For boulders – rest one minute per rigorous move
11:05 – For powerful moves, you don’t need a super long rest; you aren’t really getting pumped!
11:55 – Food and beverage intake; no need for over-consumption if it’s only a few hour session
13:00 – Food suggestions for longer days
15:30 – For longer days, look for foods with a lower glycemic index; don’t overdo the sugar!
16:20 – 3 categories of sport route attempts: falling low (20 min rest), falling mid-way (40 min rest), falling high up on a longer route (rest a full hour)
18:30 – Generalized training in addition to climbing vs. climbing as only form of training (recovery rates)
20:00 – Benefits of running for climbers
24:00 – Time for your questions. Let me know where you’re viewing from in the comments!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
24:40 – How do I get better at climbing on small holds?
28:38 – Any insight about training late during the day?
30:50 – When on a 2-3 week trip, how would you schedule your climbing and rest days if weather wasn’t a factor? Also what’s optimal for onsight/redpoint days?
33:40 – Can you effectively train aerobic endurance by traversing? Most training partners find this boring.
38:00 – I’m about to start a power-endurance circuit on the wall. Do you think 40 moves is a good amount? Any advice?
40:45 – What’s your method to change hangboard protocols?
43:33 – Can repeaters build finger strength?
44:20 – Any motivational tips for building psyche without an open climbing gym?
45:30 – What can I do to train if I’m powering out on routes?
48:10 – Running or cycling as cross-training?
49:28 – I’ve done energy system training from your book, but I don’t like to train outside of climbing. Could I continue to progress by working my core, bouldering, training antagonist muscles, and stabilizers?
51:15 – What do you think about combining “recruitment hangs” with strength endurance repeaters in the same session?
54:40 – Ethics: If you were to spend 30 minutes working out a low crux on toprope, then later try the rest on toprope, before successfully leading it clean 3rd tie-in, how many attempts would you consider that?
55:45 – I sessioned yesterday and head back out Wednesday, should I do any training sessions in between the gap?
56:20 – Has Cam tried “Bone Tomohawk” yet?
56:50 – Any thoughts on arc training for a minor A2 injury? (no pain or swelling while climbing)
56:35 – What are the main differences in energy system gains using the max weight 10-second protocol vs. the max weight 7-53 protocol?
1:02:06 – “recalibrating the central governor by high volumes of climbing” is a quote from you. Can you detail the length, quality, and density of such a period?
1:08:55 – When you are about to go on a trip, what preparation do you do to perform at a high level the whole trip? Should I focus on training hard or projecting?
1:10:54 – What can you say about “ghost pain” on old injuries? Is it the brain warning the body to not re-injure itself?
1:15:00 – See you all in two weeks for the next training café!
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