Training Café #39 – Planning Summer Training and Travel

In this training café, Eric Horst covers planning for summer travel and training, as well as questions on finger training, injury, and more!

RUNDOWN:

1:05​​​ – Eric’s approach to training and travel
1:30​ – Grab your coffee, and let’s sip together! Shoutout Café Kraft for the mug!
2:45 ​– Training café in other languages to cater to the international audience we have on here!
5:15​​ – Training indoors to travel and climb outdoors
6:20 – Coming back from St.George, Utah
7:10​ – Some A2 pulley issues and remedies
9:45 ​– Consider your schedule and make a game plan!
11:00​ – Pay attention to your body! De-load if need be. You can’t cram training!
13:00​​​​ – Always plan your training with upcoming trips in mind. Perhaps dedicate a multi-week training block if it’s a bigger trip!

********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********

13:55​​ – Hi from Bethlehem, PA! My 7 year old daughter boulders really strong but gets so scared the second she gets a rope on. What advice would you give in helping her overcome this fear?
15:21 – I’m currently getting back into that limit projecting mindset, trying moves that feel totally impossible. How do I know if it is too hard for me currently? Should I simply give the moves time?
18:40​​ –  ​​Is it normal to lose finger strength when you switch to rock climbing while maintaining one or two finger strength sessions per week ? I could hang 145% of my bodyweight and now only 117%.
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21:10​ – From Australia here, unfortunately won’t be able to make the stream since it’s late. What is a feasible way of staying on the wall 7 days a week? I find it very difficult to stay off it.
25:30​​ ​– ​If you have a bit hyper flexible finger joints, are there any do’s and dont’s when it comes to finger strength training?
27:08​​ – ​I saw your training pdf. Is it really that good to do that big training for strength and power? There are so many exercises.
31:00​​ – What are your thoughts on iron cross and planche for climbing training? I can only train rings at the moment because of the lockdown. I need some short-term goals for motivation.
32:56​​ – Any progress on a physivantage distributor in the UK?
33:50 – I cannot climb at all right now. What are the best forearm exercises for climbing?
36:06​​ – If you could feasibly access outdoor climbing whenever you want (i.e. living in the Red), how would you balance training and climbing? What would your week look like?
41:05​ – I just hit 54. Any tips for building strength for an aging climber?
43:17 – I’m in Canada and only have access to outdoor climbing once a week. How do I make the most out of that day?
44:48 – Do you find benefit doing pull-ups on small edges on the hangboard? I find it transfers well to real rock.
46:36 – What kind of doctor should I see for a finger injury?
49:50 – Thanks for tuning in! Let’s take one last sip!

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THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

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FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers