Training Café #40 – SLC World Cup Recap and Your Questions Answered

Eric Hörst shares his first-hand experience at this past weekend’s World Cup bouldering competition in Salt Lake City…and then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course!

RUNDOWN:

0:25 – In the spirit of climbing, let’s sip coffee
1:15​​ – Eric’s morning workout routine
3:05 ​– This past weekend’s World Cup in SLC, Utah
3:30 – Another World Cup in SLC this weekend
4:36​ – Some of my impressions from the World Cup
5:30​​ – How the rounds work
6:20​ ​– Other factors that influence the competition
7:40 – The final round
8:30 – Shoutout to team USA for holding it down!
9:20 – Congrats to Brooke Raboutou and Natalia Grossman for medaling!
11:30 – Natalia’s win
12:45 – Now time for YOUR questions!

********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********

13:30​​​ – Is it possible to mix repeaters and max hangs on the same day/session or cycle (starting with max hangs of course)?
17:00​ – Is it worth training strength endurance, as I feel max strength and technique/mind are providing max returns?
18:55​​ – What are your thoughts on the German climbing team in the past World Cup in SLC? 6 of them made semis, but none of them made finals, not even Megos.
22:05 ​– ​What should you focus on training for a short route that only takes a minute and a half to complete?
24:45 – ​For the women at the WC, there were problems that were topped by every woman. Do you think there is a problem with route-setting for women?
27:10 – What do you think about a 2-1-1 mesocycle training program (max str – str /end – taper)? Would someone peak at the end of it?
28:30​​​ – Any tips for continuing to train for climbing while rehabbing Golfer’s elbow? There’s great info on how to rehab, but less on how to effectively build training volume while avoiding injurious situations.
39:06 – Should the tapering session be based on the str/end or the max str?
40:07​​​ – I’m a 5.13- climber and live minutes away from an outdoor climbing area. Tues/Thurs I hangboard in the am and climb outside in the pm. Saturday I Moonboard/campus. Sunday I climb outside for mileage. How’s my schedule?
42:00​​ – Let’s take a final sip of coffee here together! See you all in two weeks for the next training café!

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