In Training Café #41, coach Eric Horst discusses what it takes to send your hardest ever boulder or route–the instruction begins around the 5:00 mark.
RUNDOWN:
1:30 – Even in the post-covid era in the states, we’re continuing with these training cafés.
2:15 – Let’s commune over coffee!
2:40 – This episode’s shoutout! Congrats to Natalia Grossman on another impressive World Cup win and Sean Bailey on his gold medal! 4:15 – 4 U.S. team back to back medals!
5:00 –In training café #41, coach Eric Horst discusses what it takes to send your hardest ever boulder or route–the instruction begins around the 5:00 mark.
6:00 – How improvement works for new and experienced climbers
9:15 – Eric Horst just recently gained a new grade in this phase of life
10:20 – Be willing to put in the time!
11:05 – Be willing to employ a system for where YOU’RE at. The process is different for each of us.
12:30 – Some common threads for all of us: pick the right route, one you can access frequently, one that caters to your strengths!
15:00 – Different kinds of projects
15:40 – System of working a route
17:30 – Step 1: explore the route; don’t worry about sending! Just collect the data.
19:20 – Try and link a few bolts together, then start linking chunks of the route!
22:30 – A big part of sending is efficiency!
25:40 – It can become a mental battle as well!
17:45 – You don’t need to quit everything to reach the next grade, but be open to sacrifices!
30:00 – Remember what it feels like to send! Take a “vacation” from your project and just climb for fun!
31:50 – Let go of the outcome and just let it happen!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
33:45 – Any thoughts on benchmarks all climbers should be able to do? Bench press, pull-ups, deadlifts, or anything for general strength?
36:00 – How should I schedule my training in order to send my 5.13 route smoothly?
38:07 – Grades seem to be the most controversial topic at any crag. Do you experience that?
40:08 – Pink-pointing vs. red-pointing
41:50 – In your book, How to Climb 5.12, you talk about HIT training with specific holds. Is this still relevant?
44:22 – I recently left the RRG and didn’t send my project. All of the moves felt easy, but I couldn’t put it together. I did max-hangs and bouldered prior to the trip. Should I have done repeaters?
45:40 – Any thoughts on 6 on / 10 off x4 weighted hangs? It feels like a nice balance between endurance and strength.
49:30 – I realized that I pull harder when I grunt, but I don’t want to look like a “bad dude” or show-off. Should I try to change this or embrace it?
51:35 – Any tips for finger strength gain for someone 50-years-old and up?
54:37 – Do you suggest isometric pulling exercises like front-levers for leading or bouldering?
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