In this episode of the Training Café, Coach Hörst talks about recovery and training tactics during the sending season, and answers viewer questions on crafting a weekly training schedule, treating overuse injuries, dealing with low motivation, using supersets in climbing training, the effectiveness of various finger training protocols, and more!
EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!
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RUNDOWN
0:30 – Introductory comments from home
1:10 – SIP COFFEE together — Climbers around the world unite!
1:40 – Training plan for the day, spring climbing season updates
3:00 – Training during the outdoor climbing season
3:30 – Post-send routine to facilitate recovery and get back into training
5:20 – Shoutouts to PhysiVantage athletes Brooke Raboutou winning gold in Japan and bronze in Seoul during the World Cup circuit, and Annie Sanders (age 16!) making finals in Seoul at her second-ever World Cup event
7:00 – World Cup event in Salt Lake City 5/19-5/21
7:30 – Personal success story on Kaleidoscope (13c) at the Red River Gorge
10:30 – Your questions answered!
10:50 – Opinions on climbing everyday and weekly schedule recommendations
15:40 – Tips for treating Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
17:45 – Advice for getting back into climbing after significant time away
22:40 – Opinions on “No-Hang” finger training
31:00 – Supersets in climbing training and overview of a training session
40:30 – Effectiveness of large-edge hangs
45:00 – Closing comments; happy sending!
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