Sip coffee with the coach…and soak up the secrets to better climbing!
EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!
Training Café #49
Coach Hörst answers viewer questions on finger training (and injuries), building endurance for route climbing, deadlifting for climbing, and more!
2:15 – Importance never-ending learning…and being willing to change your mind on training concepts. Don’t get training advice from a “know-it-all”.
3:35 – Eric comments on his recent trip to Germany…and the challenges of climbing in the legendary Frankenjura.
4:50 – How the texture of rock affects how much finger force you must put into the rock to grip a hold. Slippery rock demands higher finger force.
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
7:45 – How does recovery differ between having an A2 versus A4 finger pulley injury?
15:50 – What additional training should I do while on a year-long climbing trip?
18:38 – Is using your thumb on a rock hold the same as locking your thumb over the index finger (as in full-crimp gripping)?
21:10 – What are your thoughts on cryotherapy (ice and other cold modalities)?
24:20 – How can I better train to develop route endurance?
28:10 – Any tips for recovery from wrist flexor tendinosis?
31:20 – In deadlifting for climbing, how much strength must I build…how heavy should I go in lifting?
36:05 – If I only have 2 or 3 days per week to train for climbing, what should I focus on doing?
41:45 – How often do you recommend doing a strength assessment?
44:55 – What mobility and other warm-up exercises should I do before training for climbing?
46:50 – How many different grip positions should I train on a hangboard?
48:50 – What climbing and non-climbing books do you recommend?
51:40 – What’s the best way to get your kids to learn and love climbing?
Training Café #50
Coach Hörst answers viewer questions on plyometric training, Red River Gorge climbing, weight training for climbers, building a route grade pyramid, finger training protocols, and more!
0:15 – Eric comments on reaching 50 episodes of Training Cafe! He explains how this video series was born out of the COVID lockdown.
1:30 – Learning to climb your best demands a holistic, open-minded approach to training.
2:25 – Comments about autumn climbing at the Red River Gorge.
3:30 – Eric talks about the causes of muscle soreness and his rest requirements after two days of rigorous climbing.
6:12 – The Training Cafe’ “sip” and Shout Out to Daniel Woods on the second ascent of Zoolander (5.14d), Red River Gorge.
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
8:05 – How can I build a solid route grade pyramid to advance my climbing to the next grade?
13:40 – When’s the best time to engage in plyometric training? Eric explains the science…and best practices for climbing-specific adaptations. Read more about plyometric and connective tissue training for climbing here: https://physivantage.com/blogs/news/campus-training-is-connective-tissue-training
21:50 – Any tips for improving hip and leg flexibility?
25:30 – Can I do fingerboard training and weight lifting in the same training session?
29:20 – My hangboard training gains have been steady week to week — can I continue with the training indefinitely or should I take a break from this specific training program?
31:10 – What advice would you give a new climber for building strength?
33:50 – What amount of weight training is appropriate for climbers? Eric comments about Wolfgang Gullich and his photographer Thomas Ballenberger.
39:20 – What do you recommend for someone experience slight shoulder or elbow pain?
41:45 – For weighted pull-ups, do you hang the weight on the front or back of the harness?
42:45 – When will PhysiVantage products become available in the UK and EU?
43:30 – Can I mix anaerobic and aerobic system training?
46:20 – How can I effectively train mind control while climbing?
47:45 – How to rehab tenosynovitis?
49:40 – Should I hangboard train if it makes me feel tweaky?
52:35 – What are your thoughts on using an ARMAID device?
53:00 – Eric comments on the 4-3-2-1 and 3-2-1 training cycles.
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