In this episode of Training Café, Eric gives his thoughts and predictions for the first-ever Olympic Climbing! Three climbing disciplines will debut in Tokyo—speed, bouldering, and lead climbing—with a combined-result Gold medal will be awarded to the “sport climbing” winner.


1:00 – First, SIP COFFEE with coach Hörst! Climbers around the world unite!!
2:20 – Recap of summer climbing….and the International Climbers Festival in Lander, WY.
3:30 – FINALLY, climbing is going to be in the Olympics! But the format is flawed…with only one combined medal.
5:40 – Why speed climbers generally aren’t very good at lead climbing…and most of the best lead climbers aren’t so fast on the speed wall.
7:15 – Eric’s guess at who might win medals… And the results of the first-ever Olympic Climbing competition!
11:00 – The pros & cons of climbing being in the Olympics.


17:00 – Max hangs versus Repeaters for developing finger strength?
20:00 – Feet-on-ground campus training…where to fit this exercise into one’s training schedule?
24:45 – Will you comment on lade crushers over age 50?
26:30 – Congrats to Cameron Hörst for sending his first 5.15a!
27:25 – Is there any reason not to consume Collagen protein powder daily for 2 years?
30:30 – Best way to train sloper grip on a Beastmaker 2000 hangboard?
33:50 – What do you think about going out bouldering by myself?
36:00 – Are there any concerns about getting kidney stones from consuming whey protein over the long term?
40:00 – Final Olympic predictions…
41:24 – The betting odds on Olympic Climbing…

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