Training Café #36: Scheduling Training & Outdoor Climbing for Optimal Performance

Learn how to schedule your training around outdoor climbing days and trips for optimal performance.

In training café #36, Eric Horst covers everything from training schedules to proper recovery, to make you perform at your limit outside.

RUNDOWN:
1:57​ – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together! ​
2:40​ – Eric Horst climbing background – 44 years climbing and counting…
3:15​
​– Shoutout to two Physivantage pros – Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb – working on America’s first potential V17!
4:50​​ – Thanks Drew Ruana and Matt Fultz for spreading the PhysiVantage word!
7:07 – The main topic: How to train indoors and stay strong while still performing outdoors
7:50​ – Transfer your gains to real rock and be fresh!
8:15 – Don’t “cram” our training. Taper off your training before a trip by 50%.
10:35 ​– Tips for folks in weekend warrior mode
11:45​ – Tuesday (strength and power) & Wednesday (endurance oriented) should be main training days for weekend warriors!
12:50​ – Give your nervous system 4-5 days to recover from intense power workouts
14:15 – Even on Tuesday power days, be careful not to overdo it. When in doubt, cut it off!
15:15 – Wednesday focus on endurance and power endurance (4 by 4s, route climbing, etc.)
​15:30 – Thursday and Friday are rest and recovery days. (Go light Thursday, total recovery Friday)
16:00 – The “DUP” – Daily Undulating Periodization Program
17:00 – If you LIVE near a climbing area: How to use the gym and the boulders together
18:00 – Additional strength exercises after bouldering outside (for advanced climbers)
19:00 – You need complete rest days!
19:40 – Tips for those who live a far distance from outdoor climbing and focus on climbing trips
21:15 – Consider training cycles / blocks
22:25 – It takes planning, dedication, a system, and motivation
24:00 – Don’t ignore your tweaks!
25:45 – Listen to your body and pay attention to your recovery habits!

********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********

26:36 – Is kettlebell conditioning beneficial to climbing?
29:28 – For weekend warrior sport climbers, is it okay to only train max strength (in a week) with ARCing or is it important to include one session of strength endurance as well?
32:10 –  ​​Did you hear about Emil’s protocol about light hangboarding for 30 days based on tendon adaptations with light frequent load?
34:50 – Is it beneficial to do max hangs on pockets (for the different finger groups) if I rarely climb on them?
36:55 – Due to lockdown uncertainty, how do I adjust a training plan to get me peaking after 4 weeks (in preparation for a climbing trip) as opposed to the usual 6-8 weeks?
39:40 – One last question: Any good breathing techniques prior to getting on a route?
42:20 – Thoughts on training power and power endurance in the same day?

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THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10.

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