Eric Hörst recently sat down for an interview with Sara at Send Edition climbing…to discuss dealing with finger pain, appropriate finger training, rehab, nutrition, and more!
“The health of finger tendons and pulleys is such an important part of climbing and, at some point in your climbing experience, you’ll likely start feeling soreness on your fingers or your elbow or shoulder. At that point, you’re at a crossroad – one way is down a path of injury and the other path is recovery. This mini-series was created to help you go down the path of recovery so that you can keep climbing, injury-free.” – Sara Wade
Sara did an excellent job editing down a long interview into three fast-paced, 7-minute videos:
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Part 1 – The science of healthy tendons
TAKEAWAYS from Part 1:
0:00 – When you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
1:44 – How tendons grow.
2:37 – When your tendons need extra recovery time
4:17 – Tendinosis and tendonitis
5:10 – How soreness turns into an injury
TAKEAWAYS from Part 2:
0:00 – When you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
1:01 – How to get the most out of training on sore tendons
1:22 – Training regimen for safe progression
2:37 – Training tendons off the wall
TAKEAWAYS from Part 3:
0:00 – When you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
0:38 – Studies about nutrition with muscles
1:40 – Nutrition and connective tendons and ligaments
3:04 – Supplements for tendons
5:18 – Where to get the best collegen
6:18 – How to get the most out of supplements
Not matter your climbing level or training experience, you will gain some valuable, actionable information from these videos.
Related Links:
- The “Perfect Storm” that leads to climbing injury
- Training and nutrition influence on connective tissues and health
- Finger training for stronger tendons
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