Effective Climbing Workouts via the “SAID Principle” of Training
Learn the power of the SAID Principle! In working with hundreds of climbers over the years,…
Project-Specific Training with Indoor Simulator Problems
Route-simulator training indoors is one of the most effective ways to prepare for your outdoor…
The Skinny on Optimizing Body Composition to Improve Climbing Performance
Strength-to-weight ratio and power-to-weight ratio are important key performance indicators (KPIs) for climbers wanting to…
Shauna Coxsey Training for 2020 Olympics
In the build up to the debut of sport climbing in the 2020 Olympics, there…
Daily “Protective Training” Protocol for Stronger Finger Tendons and Pulleys
Climbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons and annular pulleys (A2 and such). If…
Podcast #36: Training to Increase Tendon Strength, Muscle Power, and Connective Tissue Health!
Sinew training. What the heck is that? Chances are you’ve never heard of “sinew training”…or…
4-Minute Plank Training for Increased Core Strength and Endurance
In this video, Jonathan Hörst leads you through a challenging 4-minute plank routine. This rigorous…
Podcast #35: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 5)
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst, Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some…
Hangboard Finger Training – The 7/3 Repeater Protocol
Finger training on a hangboard is one of the most basic—and effective—ways to improve climbing…
How to Develop Stronger, Healthier Fingers and Tendons for Climbing
Achy tendons and joints are the bane of hard-training athletes. To a passionate rock climber,…