Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research
This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years…
What Makes Adam Ondra the World’s Best Climber?
For me, climbing and science go together like coffee and dark chocolate. Rarely does a…
Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips
In this podcast I share some climbing research highlights from this summer’s incredible 4th congress…
Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing
I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which…
Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers
Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers (Simon M., Popp…
Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!
Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in…
Energy System Training (Hörst Keynote at IRCRA)
The International Rock Climbing Researchers Association (IRCRA) held their biennial meeting on Telluride (CO), this…
Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols
I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology, and motor…
Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing
This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis…
Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery method proved superior to…