Category: Research

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Nov 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 9, 2024 | Research

Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 5, 2024 | Research

Intro to Energy System Training for Climbers (Hörs...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 31, 2021 | Research, Train Body, Training Articles

Bouldering Psychotherapy: How Climbing Can Help Ba...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Feb 11, 2020 | Research, Train Mind

Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Ti...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 7, 2018 | Podcasts, Research, Train Body

What Makes Adam Ondra the World’s Best Climber?

by Eric Hörst | Nov 24, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research

For me, climbing and science go together like coffee and dark chocolate. Rarely does a day pass me...

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Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips

by Eric Hörst | Nov 3, 2018 | Podcasts, Research

In this podcast I share some climbing research highlights from this summer’s incredible 4th...

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Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jul 22, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research, Train Body, Train Strategy

I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which was...

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Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Oct 26, 2017 | Research, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers (Simon M., Popp...

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Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!

by Eric Hörst | Sep 16, 2017 | Podcasts, Research

Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via...

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Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols

by Eric Hörst | Oct 19, 2016 | Research, Train Body

I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology,...

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Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2015 | Research

This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis of...

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Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques

by Eric Hörst | Jun 2, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery...

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Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs

by Eric Hörst | Apr 1, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery...

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The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Feb 10, 2015 | Research

Key Findings and Practical Applications Elite climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power, nor absolute strength. Elite climbers tend towards possessing low body mass and low body fat percentage. Handgrip...

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Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jan 26, 2015 | Research

Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance D.M.Binney (University of...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨 . Episode 115 of the Tr

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨
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Episode 115 of the Training for Climbing podcast is available today. This podcast features @thestruggleclimbingshow host Ryan Devlin and discusses his breakthrough of 13a, and the process of progressing beyond, including grad pyramids, planning and projecting! Find a link in the bio, or wherever you listen to podcasts.
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy st

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy strength displays like this and wonder how to take a step towards getting there themselves. Surely it will take time (or a lifetime) to do this, but you’ll have to start on the hangboard. Everyone wants stronger fingers but few understands just how to do it right. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance from the article found in the link in bio!

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My fat ass learning how to hang the @beastmakers 6mm edges 🫨 New Year’s resolution: strong fingers 🤞
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#training#lifting#fitness#beastmaker#fingerboard#motivation#climbing#bouldering#trainingforclimbing

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeez

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeeze out every juice of performance, you may wonder what makes the pros so capable at doing this same thing. As you may expect, there are a handful of characteristics and tactics that make the pros, the pros… and you can adopt some yourself. Click the link in bio to hear about tapping into your potential and being like the best in a past but still pertinent episode of the training for climbing podcast!
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow . Everyone has h

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow
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Everyone has heard about building their pyramid, but what does that actually look like on an person to person basis, and how do you balance this with projecting?
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In the recent Road to the Pyramid chat with Coach @eric_horst, I was reminded of the importance of aerobic training even in the “off season”... the lack of which I’ve definitely been feeling as I try longer routes this spring. For more of Eric’s sound wisdom and specific training protocols for route-climbing season, check out the full episode on Spotify, Apple, YouTube, or wherever your pod. Bonus stuff over on Patreon!

Have you checked in with yourself lately about you

Have you checked in with yourself lately about your goals in training and climbing? What about in your life beyond climbing? What’s your destination? How will you get there?
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These questions get answered by Coach Hörst in a quick article and video. Learn about the process of success and how you can fit this formula into your goal! Click the link in Bio to read about it.
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tacti

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tactics can only be learned through trial and may be extremely impactful towards your performance. Although the weather is getting warmer out, it is never too late to stay on top of your high end performance strategies. Check it out more in depth in the link in bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #climbing #training

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼 30

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼

30 one arm pull ups:
• 1 rep with +15kg
• 2 reps with +9kg
• 3 reps with +6kg
• 4 reps with +3kg
• 5 reps with +0kg
(+100 two arm pull ups in 10min later on).

#trainingforclimbing

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
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1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
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Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
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Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
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The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
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2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
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This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
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Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
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3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
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Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
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If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
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If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
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➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
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#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

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