Category: Research
What Makes Adam Ondra the World’s Best Climber?
For me, climbing and science go together like coffee and dark chocolate. Rarely does a day pass me...
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Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips
In this podcast I share some climbing research highlights from this summer’s incredible 4th...
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Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing
I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which was...
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Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers
Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers (Simon M., Popp...
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Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!
Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via...
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Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols
I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology,...
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Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing
This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis of...
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Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery...
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Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs
Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery...
Read MoreThe Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Key Findings and Practical Applications Elite climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power, nor absolute strength. Elite climbers tend towards possessing low body mass and low body fat percentage. Handgrip...
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Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance
Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance D.M.Binney (University of...
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