Category: Research

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 16, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Intro to Energy System Training for Climbers (Hörs...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 31, 2021 | Research, Train Body, Training Articles

Bouldering Psychotherapy: How Climbing Can Help Ba...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Feb 11, 2020 | Research, Train Mind

Introducing Entralpi Finger Strength Testing and T...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Sep 21, 2019 | Research, Training Tools

Introducing PhysiVāntage — Research-Based Suppleme...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 28, 2019 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Ti...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 7, 2018 | Podcasts, Research, Train Body

What Makes Adam Ondra the World’s Best Climber?

by Eric Hörst | Nov 24, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research

For me, climbing and science go together like coffee and dark chocolate. Rarely does a day pass me...

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Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips

by Eric Hörst | Nov 3, 2018 | Podcasts, Research

In this podcast I share some climbing research highlights from this summer’s incredible 4th...

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Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jul 22, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research, Train Body, Train Strategy

I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which was...

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Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Oct 26, 2017 | Research, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers (Simon M., Popp...

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Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!

by Eric Hörst | Sep 16, 2017 | Podcasts, Research

Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via...

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Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols

by Eric Hörst | Oct 19, 2016 | Research, Train Body

I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology,...

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Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2015 | Research

This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis of...

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Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques

by Eric Hörst | Jun 2, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery...

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Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs

by Eric Hörst | Apr 1, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery...

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The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Feb 10, 2015 | Research

Key Findings and Practical Applications Elite climbers do not typically possess extremely high...

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Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jan 26, 2015 | Research

Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance D.M.Binney (University of...

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training4climbing

Expert climbing & training tips from renowned climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter

Finger strength might be a climber's bread and but

Finger strength might be a climber's bread and butter, but the wrists aren't far off. Build more resilient wrists to maximize your grip and the potential of your precious fingers. Learn how at the link in our bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #gripstrength #strengthtraining #climbingstrength #climbingtraining #upperbodystrength #wriststrength #fingerstrength

Distraction is the worst energy sucker. Maintainin

Distraction is the worst energy sucker. Maintaining concentration while you climb is a crucial skill to have in your quiver because it helps conserve energy while climbing and funnels all your focus into the situation at hand. Find five techniques for improving concentration—both on and off the wall—at the link in our bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #concentrationtraining #focustraining #focusbetter #concentratebetter #concentrationdrills #trainyourbrain #mentaltraining #focusstrategy #mentalstrength #mentalfitness #stayfocused #focusedtraining #climbingtraining

Climbing means different things to different peopl

Climbing means different things to different people. For some, it’s an engaging way to workout. For others, it’s a vehicle for life-changing experiences and adventures. Where does climbing fit in your life? Read on at the link in our bio to learn how to climb indoors as a first step to exploring just how far the sport can take you—or share with someone you want to go climbing with you!
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#trainingforclimbing #indoorclimbing #gymclimber #gymclimbing #climbinggym #boulderinggym #learntoclimb #climbingcoach #beginnerclimber

Regular ol' pull-ups are great and all, but there'

Regular ol' pull-ups are great and all, but there's only so many you can do without losing valuable training stimulus by doing the same thing over and over again. Change up your pull-up game to break through upper-body strength barriers. Try these four variations on the classic pull-up. Learn them all at the link in our bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #pullupbar #pullups #doapullup #pulluptraining #strengthtraining #upperbodyworkout #upperbodystrength #shoulderstrength

The holidays are a busy time of year for almost ev

The holidays are a busy time of year for almost everyone, and the madness is only just beginning. Prepare for the chaos ahead of time with this practical approach to training through the holiday season via a healthy balance between time at the gym and time celebrating.
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#trainingforclimbing #climbingtraining #trainthroughtheholidays #trainingseason #trainingplan #climbingtrainingplan #climbingcoach #trainingtips #climbingtips

In honor of Small Business Saturday, here's a shou

In honor of Small Business Saturday, here's a shoutout to our sister company: PhysiVāntage! Check out the story and mission behind Coach Hörst's passion project to supply the most pure, effective, and scientifically sound supplements for hardworking climbers. Learn more about PhysiVāntage at the link in our bio!
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#physivantage #smallbusinesssaturday #smallbusiness #supplements #climbingnutrition #fuelyourbody #sportsnutrition

If you find yourself feeling slow, heavy, or unmot

If you find yourself feeling slow, heavy, or unmotivated to climb today after yesterday's feast, then these excitation strategies will help rev your engine! Read up to power up at the link in our bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #excitation #getpsyched #energize #getenergized #sportspsychology #mentaltactics #mentaltraining #climbingtraining

Today's the day to fuel up BIG for your climbing g

Today's the day to fuel up BIG for your climbing goals! Climbers don't need to fear food; take it from pro climber and sports dietitian Amity Warme. Read up on how to fuel yourself best for climbing, today and everyday. Link in bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #sportsnutrition #sportsdietitian #fuelingforclimbing #fuelyourbody #eatbigdreambig #climbingnutrition

Finding the balance between work and life presents

Finding the balance between work and life presents more challenges for routesetters than almost anyone else. You can’t just clock in, clock out, and move on with your day if you expect to keep up with personal climbing goals as well. Learn how to make your work as a routesetter, training as a climber, and health—both physical and mental—exist in harmony with one another. Read at the link in our bio!
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#trainingforclimbing #routesetting #routesetter #climbingtraining #climbharder #trainingschedule

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