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Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!

Posted by Eric Hörst on September 16, 2017 in Podcasts, Research | 2,469 Views | Leave a response
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Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in training & testing technologies, nuanced program design, and genetic testing and epigenetics. This is a fascinating podcast rich with clues for improving the effectiveness of your training, reducing injury risk, pursuing your genetic potential, and for living longer and prospering in the vertical world!

If you enjoy this podcast, please share with your climbing friends via social media! You can support this podcast by purchasing a book(s) from TrainingForClimbing.com. Thank you, and enjoy!

Click the play button below to listen now! Or, listen on iTunes or your favorite podcast player App.


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Podcast Rundown:

2:00 – Intro to the future of training for climbing.

5:00 – Importance of climbing research and veteran coaching in pointing the way forward.

8:35 – Comments on Adam Ondra’s ascent of “Silence”…the world’s first 5.15d/9c.

18:00 – Overview of past training innovations…campus board, hangboard, etc.

20:35 – Recent innovations…the Treadwall, Moon Board, Lattice Wall, Zlagboard, etc.

24:40 – The need to establish standardize testing of climbing-specific strength, power, endurance….to determine the relative strength of the three bio-energetic systems.

25:10 – My vision for the future of training for climbing—broken into three parts:

29:18 – #1: Stop guessing; start testing. The importance of accurate physiological assessment. Leveraging “big data”.

47:05 – #2: Smarter program design–short-term nuance with a good long-term aim. Importance of understanding hormetic stress and cellular signaling to getting the most out of your training investment.

57:00 – #3: Genetic testing and training program design with epigenetics in mind.

1:07:25 – Closing thoughts.

Music: Misty Murphy


Copyright © 2017 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved

Posted in Podcasts, Research | Tagged the future of training for climbing, training podast

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