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Podcast #38: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 6)

Posted by Eric Hörst on August 6, 2019 in Basic Training, Podcasts | 1,143 Views | Leave a response
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In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst…Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are…energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating healing of an A2 pulley injury.

Listen in with the podplayer below, or cou can also listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Play, and via Stitcher! Subscribe to “Eric Hörst’s Training For Climbing” podcast. 


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Podcast Rundown

4:57 – Question #1 – How important is a climbing-specific aerobic training block at the beginning of a training cycle?

9:42 – Question #2 – Can you provide me with tips on staying healthy and motivated…and supporting my longevity in climbing?

16:12 – Question #3 – How many exercises can I include in an alactic energy system training session for developing maximum strength and power?

22:30 – Question #4 – I’ve read about the Tabata training protocol and I’m wondering what you think of applying it to hangboard training…by alternating 20-second hangs with 10 seconds of rest?

27:50 – Question #5 – I’m new to climbing and I feel that my weak fingers are a limiting constraint. Do you agree with the common rule of “no hangboard training in the first year of learning to climb”?

32:44 – Question #6 – I’ve been on a ketogenic diet for the past 3 weeks, and I feel terrific! What’s your opinion the ketogenic diet and what are the pros and cons for a climber?

42:05 – Question #7 – I recently injured (mild pain) both of my middle fingers on a tweaky move. I’ve been doing light stretching and very light exercise to help support healing–what other things can I do to accelerate the healing process?

If you enjoyed this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. And please write an iTunes review. Thank you!


Subscribe on iTunes to “Eric Hörst’s Training For Climbing” podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify, Google Play, and via Stitcher!


Important Links and Social Media Connections:

  • Learn about Eric’s new brand PhysiVāntage >>
  • Listen to Podcast #34 on the vital topic of tendon health and what you can do to improve tendon and ligament pulley strength.

NOTE: If you’d like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing — include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

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Posted in Basic Training, Podcasts | Tagged Climbing injuries, climbing training questions, energy system training, hangboard training

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