Browse: Home / Podcast #35: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 5)

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • Privacy Policy
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Lattice “Triple” Hangboard
    • Lattice “Mini Bar”
    • Lattice “QUAD” Pinch Block
    • Lattice Heavy Roller – Forearm Training for Climbers
    • Lattice Training – Lifting Pin (aka “Loading Pin”)
    • Lattice Flex Mat – Yoga & Stretching Training
    • Lattice Training “Micro Holds”
    • Lattice Mega Bar – Portable Hangboard for Climbers
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Podcast #35: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 5)

Posted by Eric Hörst on May 14, 2019 in Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body | 1,116 Views | Leave a response
122    
122
Shares

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst, Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered include…the science of “supercompensation”, the use of gymnastic exercises in training, dealing with recurrent injuries, fingerboard training, mental training and “head space” development, endurance training, running, and more! It’s 45 minutes of training-for-climbing information and fun. Listen in!

Podcast Rundown

4:48 – Question #1 – What exactly is “supercompensation” and how does the intensity and frequency of my training affect supercompensation and my strength and fitness gains?

14:45 – Question #2 – Are calisthenics and gymnastic exercises beneficial for climbers? If so, how can I best add them to my program?

20:35 – Question #3 – For the past two years I’ve been stuck in a cycle of injury including both of my elbows and one shoulder. I tend to be hyper mobile…so perhaps I’m just not meant to be a climber. What do you think Eric? Is there any hope for me to have an injury-free climbing season?

26:10 – Question #4 – I’m a veteran climber, with lots of alpine experience, but I consider myself rather weak (I can redpoint 5.12c).  I’m beginning a hangboard training program with weighted hangs and repeaters–can I do both of these in the same workout session or would that be counterproductive? Can you give me some advice on how to hangboard train effectively?

31:10 – Question #5 – I’m a 5.11 sport and gym climber, but I struggle at leading 5.9 trad (gear) routes…due to fear? How can I begin to “mental train” to improve my headspace for success on harder traditional climbs?

37:00 – Question #6 – I have climbed 5.14 and V10, yet on my recent (first) visit to the Red River Gorge I got totally spanked on the long steep endurance routes of a much lower grade? How can I better prepare for climbing at steep crags like at the Red River Gorge?

41:50 – Question #7 – I’m an avid boulderer with a background in cycling and running. Right now, I’m running for up to 45 minutes, a few days per week, because it makes me feel better and keep my weight in check for climbing. Is this amount of running hurting my recovery from climbing and training for climbing? When’s the best time to do my runs–on climbing or on non-climbing days?

If you enjoyed this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. And please write an iTunes review. Thank you!


Subscribe on iTunes to “Eric Hörst’s Training For Climbing” podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify, Google Play, and via Stitcher!


Important Links and Social Media Connections:

  • Learn about Eric’s new brand PhysiVāntage >>
  • Listen to Podcast #34 on the vital topic of tendon health and what you can do to improve tendon and ligament pulley strength and endurance.

NOTE: If you’d like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing — include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

 


Copyright © 2000–2019 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.


122    
122
Shares
122   
Posted in Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body | Tagged ask coach horst, climbing training questions, fingerboard training

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Beat the Pump with SENDURE-X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Shop Now >>

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Vegan BCAA & Electrolyte Supplement

FLOW bcaa electrolyte physivantage

Support muscle function and performance through long workouts or days of climbing.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PhysiVāntage Europe!

physivantage nutrition europe

Attention UK & EU climbers! You can now buy PhysiVāntage nutrition from the EPIC-TV shop!

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

https://physivantage.com/

Privacy Policy

https://trainingforclimbing.com/privacy-policy/

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

  • Free Training Programs for Climbers

    310063 views / Posted July 11, 2019
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

    213501 views / Posted May 14, 2021
  • 4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    189672 views / Posted November 21, 2022
  • The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    160016 views / Posted September 2, 2020
 
 

©2021 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)