Browse: Home / Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Gimme Kraft!
    • Jerry Moffatt’s MASTERMIND
    • Gimme Kraft! – AIR
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • Bouldering Essentials
    • Climbing Injuries Solved
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • The Young Savages
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs

Posted by Eric Hörst on April 1, 2015 in Research, Train Strategy | 1,982 Views | Leave a response
Share10
Tweet
Pin
Email
10 Shares

Key Points & Practical Application:

  • Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery yielded faster recovery between bouts of high intensity climbing.
  • Lactate concentrations and RPE (rating of perceived exertion) were lower after active recovery than after short periods of passion recovery.
  • Concluding the active recovery period with a brief “refocusing passive phase” allowed heart rate to return to a similar level as in use of passive recovery.
  • Use of walking as active recovery between bouts of hard bouldering or sport climbing appears to be a beneficial strategy for accelerating recovery, as the leg muscles metabolize lactate produced by the arms and torso during hard climbing.

 

Effects of Active Recovery on Lactate Concentration, Heart Rate and RPE in Climbing

Nick Draper, Ellis L. Bird, Ian Coleman and Chris Hodgson
Centre for Adventure Science Research, University of Chichester, Chichester, West Sussex, UK

Journal of Sports Science and Medicine (2006) 5, 97 – 105

Lactate concentrations: Passive vs. Active Recovery
Lactate concentrations: Passive vs. Active Recovery

ABSTRACT
The performance advantage of active rather than passive recovery during subsequent trials for repeated high intensity short-term exercise is well documented. Research findings suggest that shorter periods of active recovery, than traditionally employed, can be prescribed and still retain performance benefits over passive recoveries in successive exercise trials. The aim of this study was to examine the benefits of a short duration active recovery for repeat climbing trials. Ten recreational climbers volunteered for the study. In this randomly assigned crossover study each climber completed five two-minute climbing trails before a two minute active or passive recovery. This was followed by a one and a half minute passive refocusing period for all climbers before the subsequent climbing trial. Heart rate was monitored continuously, RPE immediately post climbing and fingertip capillary blood samples collected during each refocusing phase. There was a non-significant difference between active and passive recoveries for heart rate during climbing. After the active phase climbers had higher heart rates than when following the passive recovery protocol, however, by the end of the refocusing phase the active recovery protocol led to lower heart rates than for the entirely passive recovery. There was a significant difference between active and passive recovery conditions in lactate concentration (F(1,9) = 18.79, p = 0.002) and RPE (F(1,9) = 6.51, p = 0.031). Lactate concentration and RPE were lower across all five climbing trials for the active recovery protocol. After active recovery climbers started the next trial with a lower arterial lactate concentration than for a passive recovery and indicated lower RPE scores at the end of each climb. The refocusing period following active recovery allowed climbers heart rates to return to a lower level at the start of the next climb than for the passive recovery condition.

Read the full paper >>

 

Posted in Research, Train Strategy | Tagged active recovery, climbing research

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Beat the Pump with Endure X Performance

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Lattice Testing & Training Rung

Learn more >>

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Introducing PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

  • Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    199134 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • fingerboard training

    4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    148605 views / Posted November 1, 2016
  • The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    108106 views / Posted September 2, 2020
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow”

    72308 views / Posted September 1, 2016
 
 

©2020 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Training For Climbing, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)