Browse: Home / Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • Privacy Policy
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Lattice “Triple” Hangboard
    • Lattice “Mini Bar”
    • Lattice “QUAD” Pinch Block
    • Lattice Heavy Roller – Forearm Training for Climbers
    • Lattice Training – Lifting Pin (aka “Loading Pin”)
    • Lattice Flex Mat – Yoga & Stretching Training
    • Lattice Training “Micro Holds”
    • Lattice Mega Bar – Portable Hangboard for Climbers
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research

Posted by Eric Hörst on December 7, 2018 in Podcasts, Research, Train Body | 5,784 Views | Leave a response
64    
64
Shares

This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard finger training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience—and the latest research—you’ll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valuable tips on organizing your hangboard training for optimal results and continued gains in the long-term!

Rundown

0:22 – Introduction and sponsored product info.

2:00 – The “business” starts here!

3:20 – Who should hangboard train? Guidelines for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers.

8:30 – The value of hangboard training for intermittent year-round…and the importance of finding your “best” personalized program.

9:45 – Get compliant! Learn the “120-move” rule for warming up.

15:45 – Why elite level climbers need to do some two-a-day workouts.

16:55 – Beginner guidelines. To hang or not to hang?

17:35 – How proper training (and rest) can make your tendons stronger, stiffer, and slightly thicker given long-term, prudent hangboard training.

18:10 – Which grip positions you should train? How grip position effects forces placed on the flexor tendons and pulleys. Important stuff!

21:00 – Biomechanics of the full crimp grip.

22:12 – Biomechanics of the open-hand grip.

23:18 – What about the “open-crimp” grip?

25:15 – Importance of targeting a specific grip position.

26:50 – Research findings on the forces places on the FDP and FDS flexor tendons with different grip positions.

31:50 – Forces placed on A2 and A4 pulleys…and how to train around a minor annular pulley injury. Click here to learn how to support stronger, healthier tendons with daily use of Supercharged Collagen by PhysiVantage.

33:32 – Finger extensor muscle imbalances…and how to train to combat them.

39:45 – Pinch grip training—Eric’s “two birds with one stone” training recommendation.

42:08 – Why every serious climbing much do two brief antagonist exercise sessions per week.

42:55 – Reminder that specific hangboard training protocols are detailed in Podcast #10.

43:08 – Tips on exercise programming.

46:50 – Tips for advanced climbers.

48:00 – Elite climber advice: The importance of doing periods of high volume training for Central Governor recalibration–one of the keys to breaking new performance barriers! Learn more on this in my book, Training for Climbing.

50:30 – Keys to long-term gains over decades. Yes, you can do it with dedicated & smart training—if you stay uninjured!

51:35 – Teaser on the next few podcasts…which will break some new ground. Don’t miss them!

52:40 – Closing comments about the transcending spirit of climbing…and Eric’s good wishes to you for the holidays and New Year!

  • To learn more about all things training, climbing, and performance…pick up a copy of the latest edition of the best-selling Training for Climbing!

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

Music by: Misty Murphy

Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to “Eric Hörst’s Training For Climbing” podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!


Copyright © 2000–2019 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.


64    
64
Shares
64   
Posted in Podcasts, Research, Train Body | Tagged fingerboard training, hangboard training, podcast, training for climbing

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Shop Now >>

Beat the Pump with Endure X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Vegan BCAA & Electrolyte Supplement

FLOW bcaa electrolyte physivantage

Support muscle function and performance through long workouts or days of climbing.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PhysiVāntage Europe!

physivantage nutrition europe

Attention UK & EU climbers! You can now buy PhysiVāntage nutrition from the EPIC-TV shop!

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Supercharge Your Climbing!

https://trainingforclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Final-Climbers-ad-hook-2-v1.mp4

Privacy Policy

https://trainingforclimbing.com/privacy-policy/

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

  • Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    301722 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

    198826 views / Posted May 14, 2021
  • 4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    185638 views / Posted November 21, 2022
  • The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    155963 views / Posted September 2, 2020
 
 

©2021 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)