Podcast #45 – Ask Coach Horst about Training for Climbing

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Questions on training and climbing performance answered via podcast!

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst…Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are…hangboard training, diagnosing a finger injury, autoregulation use in competition, energy system training, optimal training for a Masters climber, protein requirements, and blood flow restriction training. Listen in!

 

RUNDOWN

0:15 – Intro

1:45 – About POWERPLEX plant-based protein and collagen alternative for vegan climbers. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products.

3:05 – Question #1 – What are your thoughts on hangboard training on climbing days…as well as on consecutive days?

7:50 – Question #2 – Can you give me some insight into my finger injury…which is painful at the base of the ring finger, but also extends down into the palm and forearm?

10:10 – Question #3 – What’s the optimal length of rest between strength/power exercises and powerful bouldering?

14:15 – Question #4 – What do you think about the use of auto-regulation on competition days? Might the findings potentially hurt the mental state of the athlete? (Learn more about Auto-Regulation in Podcast #44.)

19:00 – Question #5 – How can I incorporate Energy System Training concepts into a periodized training program? (Learn more about Energy System Training in podcasts #21 – #28.)

26:00  – Question #6 – What advice do you have for a 50-something climber wanting to train right and climb for many years to come?

32:54 – Question #7 – How much protein do I need to consume daily to recover optimally?

41`:40 – Question #8 – When doing weighted pull-ups should I go down the whole way or should I maintain a bit of arm-bend at the bottom?

45:40 – Question #9 – I’d like to do some blood flow restriction training (BFR) — what protocol do you recommend for a healthy climber?

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  • Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing!

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Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by: Misty Murphy

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