Browse: Home / Episode #64 – Performance Training Interview with Coach Hörst – Part 2

Menu

Skip to content
Header image

Training For Climbing – by Eric HörstLogo

Train Smarter, Climb Harder!

Menu

Skip to content
  • Privacy Policy
  • About
    • Welcome to the New T4C!
    • About T4C
    • Eric’s Biography
    • Eric’s Publishing Resume
    • Eric’s Books (1994 – present)
    • Meet the Hörst Family!
    • Testimonials
    • Terms of Use
    • Contact Eric
  • Knowledge Base
  • Multimedia
  • Buy Books
    • Training for Climbing (3rd edition)
    • The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide
    • Maximum Climbing
    • One Move Too Many
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Learning to Climb Indoors
    • Rock Climbing: VA/MD/WV
  • Training Tools
    • Lattice “Triple” Hangboard
    • Lattice “Mini Bar”
    • Lattice “QUAD” Pinch Block
    • Lattice Heavy Roller – Forearm Training for Climbers
    • Lattice Training – Lifting Pin (aka “Loading Pin”)
    • Lattice Flex Mat – Yoga & Stretching Training
    • Lattice Training “Micro Holds”
    • Lattice Mega Bar – Portable Hangboard for Climbers
    • Endless Rope Trainer
  • Research
  • Coaching
  • Links

Episode #64 – Performance Training Interview with Coach Hörst – Part 2

Posted by Eric Hörst on July 27, 2021 in Climbing Mastery, Podcasts | 365 Views | Leave a response
72    
72
Shares

This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt’s (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. Listen to Part 1 here >>

In this episode you will learn…how young guns Cameron Hörst (20) and Jonathan Hörst (18) train compared to their coach dad (age 57), tips for parenting/coaching youth climbers, what it takes to climb the next grade (whether it’s 5.10 or 5.15), sloper training, the importance of protein, and more. There’s a ton of great tips and sage advice in this episode. Lean in and listen up!

Photo: Cameron (20), Eric (57), and Jonathan (18) in Spring 2021.

Podcast Rundown

00:12 – Intro and overview of Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt’s “The Nugget” interview with coach Eric Hörst

2:25 – How Cameron and Jonathan Horst train for elite-level climbing compared to the training of their coach father training for his master’s climbing ascents.

4:05 – Advanced hangboard training protocol details.

6:30 – Importance of listening to your body, adjusting training, and route-specific training.

7:30 – Tendon “loading history” and effects of youth climbing on tendon core structure.

8:30 – The pros/cons of youth single-sport and multisport involvement.

16:05 – Tips for parents and coaches of youth climbers. Read more about age-appropriate training of youth climbers >>

18:15 – Climbing benchmarks of the Hörst brothers (aka The Send Bros).

20:25 – Current status of the Hörst brothers climbing. Cameron (age 20) just climbed his fourth 5.14d and first 5.15a (after this interview was recorded) and Jonathan (age 18) send his second 5.14c in July.

23:35 – Eric’s “old climber” dream goal: A free big wall…or sport 5.14a?

25:20 – How to “win” as a weekend warrior?

30:00 – What it takes to climb the next grade…

31:45 – Nature, nurture, and willpower!

33:55 – How to improve on big holds?

34:30 – Pinch training tips…

37:00 – Sloper training.

38:55 – Importance of training wrist flexion and extension.

41:40 – What’s most exciting about training for climbing in 2021?

42:30 – Pros/cons of system wall training.

46:00 – The role of nutrition in training and performance.

48:30 – The importance of dietary protein…to support strength gains, connective tissue remodeling, muscle protein synthesis, and more.

50:10 – Overview of Eric’s PhysiVantage product line…and the benefits for recreational and pro climbers alike. (Get a 15% discount off full-price nutrition with checkout code: NUGGET15)

52:45 – All about supplementing with hydrolyzed collagen powder–overview of the fascinating research…and the numerous benefits for hard-training climbers, if you time it correctly.

1:09:30 – The value of high-quality post-workout protein consumption…plant-based or whey isolate…it’s a difference-maker

1:16:30 – Wrap up comments…and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

Please Share This Podcast!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhysiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Podcast Audio and Content Copyright 2021 Hörst Training, LLC – All Rights Reserved.


72    
72
Shares
72   
Posted in Climbing Mastery, Podcasts | Tagged eric horst interview, nugget podcast

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Lattice Testing & Training Tools

Shop Now >>

Beat the Pump with Endure X!

Endure X Performance Drink by PhysiVantage

Increase your power endurance, stamina, and recovery between repeated efforts in training and climbing!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Stronger Tendons. Fewer Injuries. Really!

supercharged collagen for climbers

Research-based connective tissue, joint, and muscle matrix support for climbers.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

#1 International Best Seller!

Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, 3rd edition, 2016.

Click the book cover to learn about this international best-seller!

Vegan BCAA & Electrolyte Supplement

FLOW bcaa electrolyte physivantage

Support muscle function and performance through long workouts or days of climbing.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PhysiVāntage Europe!

physivantage nutrition europe

Attention UK & EU climbers! You can now buy PhysiVāntage nutrition from the EPIC-TV shop!

Premium Protein for Muscle Strength/Power Gains & Faster Recovery

Weapons-Grade Whey Protein Complex by PhysiVantage

The first recovery protein designed for climbers! Feel the Weapons-Grade difference.

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

PowerPlex Plant-Based Protein!

Powerplex Plant-Based Protein

The Most Advanced Plant-Based Protein and Collagen Alternative for Vegans!

Learn more at PhysiVantage.com

Knowledge Base

  • Train Body
  • Train Technique & Skills
  • Train Mind
  • Train Strategy
  • The Hurt Locker (Injury)
  • Youth Training
  • Climbing Mastery
  • Nutrition & Recovery
  • Research
  • Gimme Kraft! Videos
  • Basic Training
  • Climbing 101
  • T4C Videos
  • T4C Podcasts

Connect with T4C on Facebook!

Supercharge Your Climbing!

https://trainingforclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Final-Climbers-ad-hook-2-v1.mp4

Privacy Policy

https://trainingforclimbing.com/privacy-policy/

Footer logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Follow T4C on . . .twitter_logo1facebook-sm

 
 

Popular

  • Training Programs for Climbers (T4C free download!)

    301719 views / Posted July 10, 2019
  • Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

    198819 views / Posted May 14, 2021
  • 4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work

    185637 views / Posted November 21, 2022
  • The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing: The Scapular Pull-up!

    155961 views / Posted September 2, 2020
 
 

©2021 Eric J. Hörst - All Rights Reserved | Hörst Training, LLC

Menu

Subscribe to Training For Climbing Newsletter


(Your email address will NOT be shared or sold, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)