This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt’s (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. Listen to Part 1 here >>
In this episode you will learn…how young guns Cameron Hörst (20) and Jonathan Hörst (18) train compared to their coach dad (age 57), tips for parenting/coaching youth climbers, what it takes to climb the next grade (whether it’s 5.10 or 5.15), sloper training, the importance of protein, and more. There’s a ton of great tips and sage advice in this episode. Lean in and listen up!
Photo: Cameron (20), Eric (57), and Jonathan (18) in Spring 2021.
00:12 – Intro and overview of Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt’s “The Nugget” interview with coach Eric Hörst
2:25 – How Cameron and Jonathan Horst train for elite-level climbing compared to the training of their coach father training for his master’s climbing ascents.
4:05 – Advanced hangboard training protocol details.
6:30 – Importance of listening to your body, adjusting training, and route-specific training.
7:30 – Tendon “loading history” and effects of youth climbing on tendon core structure.
8:30 – The pros/cons of youth single-sport and multisport involvement.
16:05 – Tips for parents and coaches of youth climbers. Read more about age-appropriate training of youth climbers >>
18:15 – Climbing benchmarks of the Hörst brothers (aka The Send Bros).
20:25 – Current status of the Hörst brothers climbing. Cameron (age 20) just climbed his fourth 5.14d and first 5.15a (after this interview was recorded) and Jonathan (age 18) send his second 5.14c in July.
23:35 – Eric’s “old climber” dream goal: A free big wall…or sport 5.14a?
25:20 – How to “win” as a weekend warrior?
30:00 – What it takes to climb the next grade…
31:45 – Nature, nurture, and willpower!
33:55 – How to improve on big holds?
34:30 – Pinch training tips…
37:00 – Sloper training.
38:55 – Importance of training wrist flexion and extension.
41:40 – What’s most exciting about training for climbing in 2021?
42:30 – Pros/cons of system wall training.
46:00 – The role of nutrition in training and performance.
48:30 – The importance of dietary protein…to support strength gains, connective tissue remodeling, muscle protein synthesis, and more.
50:10 – Overview of Eric’s PhysiVantage product line…and the benefits for recreational and pro climbers alike. (Get a 15% discount off full-price nutrition with checkout code: NUGGET15)
52:45 – All about supplementing with hydrolyzed collagen powder–overview of the fascinating research…and the numerous benefits for hard-training climbers, if you time it correctly.
1:09:30 – The value of high-quality post-workout protein consumption…plant-based or whey isolate…it’s a difference-maker
1:16:30 – Wrap up comments…and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.
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