Learn the science behind the physical differences between bouldering and sport climbing, and what it means for optimal training for each climbing sub-discipline.

The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!

Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies.

However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We’ll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I’ll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each.


0:14 – Hello and Intro

1:30 – Overview of the PHYSICAL differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing)

2:15 – Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!

4:50 – Energy system uses in various types of climbing….and the analogy of various Track & Field events.

10:23 – Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types.

>> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >>

12:15 – A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering.

16:05 – An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing.

>> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of running for climbers >>

21:24 – Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time.

23:50 – Summary points

25:00 –  Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition — Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).  Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

26:00 – Closing comments — Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by The Police (Remixes)

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Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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