Effective training for climbing is easier said than done. Especially for intermediate and advanced climbers, proper exercise selection, program design, and preparing for periods of performance climbing is akin to playing 3-D chess! Therefore, learning from—or working with—a veteran coach is highly valuable and potentially game-changing.

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmit of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more!

There’s a gold mine of information in this episode….and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon…

Podcast Rundown

00:12 – Intro to this “best of” the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst

2:56 – What core elements of training have passed the test of time?

6:23 – Current glut of training information can be overwhelmingwhat to do?

8:37 – Importance of re-inventing your training each year.

10:07 – Value of engaging an expert coach.

12:25 – What’s the most central exercise/activity for climbers?

14:30 – You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades!

17:00 – You can improve at climbing for DECADES!

18:25 – You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade!

19:56 – What should you look for in hiring a coach?

25:50 – New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic.

30:00 – Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments.

34:00 – Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance.

35:10 – How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results.

36:30 – Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear.

44:40 – Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the “snowflake principle”).

46:00 – Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers, it’s “end-range” strength.

50:15 – How designing an advanced training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the “person” not just the athlete.

51:00 – Don’t fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality.

54:25 – Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!)

56:30 – Eric comments about Alex Megos’ coaches Patrick & Dicki

59:00 – Learn about deadlifting for climbers…the value…and the potential pitfalls.

1:06:30 – The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds.

1:11:10 – Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force…resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs.

1:14:10 – More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle.

1:16:30 – Wrap up comments…and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst!

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