Training Café #42 – Adjusting Your Climbing to a New Area

Traveling to climb somewhere new this season? Let Eric Horst give you some tips to support your performance in this episode of Training Café. Also, viewer training questions are answered!

RUNDOWN:

00:30 – Reporting to you from the road – with coffee!
1:20​​ – Some background on Rifle, CO climbing area
2:20 ​– It can be challenging to adjust to a new rock type!
3:08​​​ – Travel exposes all kinds of new challenges for your climbing
5:30 – If you’re in the position to, travel to new areas to climb!
6:20​​ – When you get to an area, don’t just pick a project and get to work – experience all of the grades and warm up to the area!
8:00 ​– Acclimate to any changes in elevation
9:15​ – If you treat your body right at higher elevation, it will adjust more quickly! (Red blood cells will increase faster)
11:30​​​​​ – Treat your body right and allow the first few days to adjust to the rock and environment

********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********

12:30​​​ – I two-hung my project at Smith Rock yesterday. Any advice on a strategy to now send it quickly?
14:30 – Any routes in Boulder Canyon (in the 5.12-5.13 range) that you’d recommend?
15:35​​​ –  Just had my first post-covid climbing trip to Frankenjura and I struggled a lot on the steep terrain. What’s the best training for power endurance on a 90-degree homewall?
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20:30​​ – What’s the best fingerboard training (7×3 repeater protocol or 7×53 max-strength protocol) to do once a week in climbing season?
23:05 ​– ​On the climbing nugget podcast, you speak loudly about the importance of core training. Could you go deeper on that in the future?
28:50​​​ – ​One last sip of coffee – until next time!

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