Sip a cup of coffee as you learn how to get stronger via hangboard training!

Watch episodes 3 and 4 to learn all about effective hangboard training. In episode 3, Eric details specific hangboard protocols for developing finger strength, strength-endurance, and local aerobic endurance. Episode 4 is a demo of proper hangboard training technique, as well as tips for getting stronger without getting injured. Learn how to develop healthier and more injury resistant fingers.

NOTE: Episode 4 has a few technical glitches (audio/video drop) due to storms moving through during the live broadcast.


2:30 – How often should you hangboard train? Beginner versus expert? 4:20 – While hangboarding can be so effective for developing grip strength…but it is also stressful and can injury you. Beware! 6:40 – How to properly warm-up for a hangboard workout? 9:20 – What finger/grip positions should you train? 13:00 – What about pinch grip training? 14:15 – Learn about proper hangboard training technique…to avoid injury. 16:30 – How to regulate resistance? 18:25 – A review of different training protocols…for maximum strength, strength-endurance, and aerobic endurance. Watch Training Cafe #3 for a detailed discussion of different training protocols. 25:00 – What to do if you feel any pain in your fingers, tendons, joints? 26:00 – Learn about the research-based technique for strengthing tendons and pulleys with pre-workout consumption of Supercharged Collagen — used daily this is a powerful strategy to get more out of your workout, develop stronger tendons, and support healing of an existing connective tissue injury. Learn more here:

Sip Coffee and Learn All About Hangboard Training Protocols!


0:06 – Opening comments. 3:55 – This episode’s “TC Shout Out”! 5:05 – Question about Horst Home Gym weekend workouts. 6:00 – Using bioenergetic systems as a conceptual model for organizing your training. 9:00 – About methods of “max hangs” fingerboard training (one vs. two-handed hangs). 13:15 – Anaerobic power intervals (all-out climbing with a 1:4 work-rest ratio). 14:15 – Aerobic capacity training (moderate intensive high-volume training). 15:30 – Threshold training near climbing-specific VO2 max (2’/2′ repeats with moderate, but not severe, pump). 22:40 – About “density hangs” for tendon health/strength–when to do them…when NOT to do them!, 29:00 – Importance of training smart…and the FIRST RULE OF ERIC’S TRAIN CLUB!

Links to the tendon-training podcasts Eric mentioned: T4C podcasts #33 – #36 and #39.