In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst discusses how to manage nagging injuries that pop up during the climbing season. He also answers viewer questions on projecting, overcoming mental barriers on the way to the next grade, one-arm hangs, and creatine for recovery.
EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!
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1:00 – Sip coffee together; Climbers around the world unite!
2:00 – Shoutout to Jakob Schubert sending his ~5.15c project
3:00 – The myriad impacts of climbing on the body and the prevalence of pesky injuries
4:00 – Common climbing injuries and why they occur
5:30 – Thoughts on safely recalibrating your body’s “central governor” to handle more volume and intensity in climbing; when to push through fatigue and when to back off
7:20 – Balancing training stimulus and recovery
7:50 – Aches and pains as a warning sign
9:00 – When to see a doctor for a bigger climbing injury
10:00 – Nutrition and recovery tips for preventing climbing injuries
14:40 – Modifying your climbing style to avoid injury irritation
15:50 – Addressing the root cause of your injury during the off-season
17:00 – Composition of soft tissues; how collagen supports tendon strength
17:50 – Hydration for injury prevention and recovery
18:15 – Risks of NSAIDs like Ibuprofen and Aspirin
21:00 – Why and how to warm up well!
22:40 – Viewer questions answered
23:00 – How to rehab PIP inflammation
25:00 – How much time to spend on your project versus other climbs and objectives during a performance climbing period
29:00 – Advice on adding one-arm hangs to hangboard protocol
33:30 – How to manage concussion recovery in climbing
35:50 – How to overcome the mental barrier of reaching the next grade
38:50 – Thoughts on creatine for climbing and recovery
40:20 – Final thoughts, join us every other Monday at noon EST for future episodes of the Training Cafe!
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