Coach Hörst turns 58 on February 14th…so he decided to discuss the many facets of the topic of “age, training, and performance”. Sure, raw power typically peaks in one’s third decade of life; however, you can still continue to improve at climbing for decades beyond that!

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN

0:40 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!

1:12 – SHOUT OUT: Allison Vest on her V14 ascent!

2:10 – MAIN TOPIC: How much does age matter when it comes to training and climbing? Eric dishes out the details over the next 20 minutes of this video!

23:00 – The value of extra protein and certain supplements for older climbers. https://physivantage.com/products/weapons-grade-whey-protein-complex

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******

34:00 – How to train on a “bad skin” day?

36:18 – Your thoughts on increasing/decreasing daily calorie consumption based on the type of training I’m doing (strength vs. endurance)?

40:34 – Is it better to train power before endurance or vice versa?

43:40 – What hangboard protocol can I use to train local aerobic endurance (of the fingers)?

48:45 – At age 38 I’ve climbed 5.12c/7b+…and I’m wondering if you think I can progress to my goal of 8a?

51:35 – What’s an okay weight fluctuation throughout a training cycle or season?

55:40 – What do you think of my current training schedule of two strength/power sessions and one high-volume aerobic training per week?

1:00:20 – Where can I find some climbing-specific nutrition information?

1:09:10 – How important is stretching in your training routine?

1:12:00 – Do you still jump off boulders at age 58?

THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10.

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