Training Café #55 – Dealing with an “Off” Day at the Climbing Gym

Coach Hörst talks about his recent “off” day at the climbing gym. What’s the best way to react (and adjust your training plan) to such an off day?

EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN

0:30 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!

2:30 – SHOUT OUT: Julia Chounardie

4:00 – Eric’s thoughts on climbing going “mainstream”.

6:30 – MAIN TOPIC: How to respond to an “off day” at the climbing gym. You have 3 choices…

7:50 – Use of auto-regulation to make the workout appropriate for your current state.

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
20:00 – How to organize strength training for a V6 boulderer?

23:00 – How long should a training cycle last?

26:00 – How to best train for long steep routes?

32:35 – Can I train multiple grip positions in a single workout?

39:55 – Any words of wisdom for me after tearing my biceps tendon?

44:10 – I’m three weeks out from a trip to Spain…how should I train leading into the trip?

47:50 – What do you think of my unique pull-up routine?

52:25 – What do you think of deadlift style finger training?

54:40 – How can I prepare my youth climbers for competition skills?

THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!

SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10.

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