Coach Hörst talks about his recent “off” day at the climbing gym. What’s the best way to react (and adjust your training plan) to such an off day?
EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!
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0:30 – Sip coffee with coach Hörst – climbers around the world unite!
2:30 – SHOUT OUT: Julia Chounardie
4:00 – Eric’s thoughts on climbing going “mainstream”.
6:30 – MAIN TOPIC: How to respond to an “off day” at the climbing gym. You have 3 choices…
7:50 – Use of auto-regulation to make the workout appropriate for your current state.
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
20:00 – How to organize strength training for a V6 boulderer?
23:00 – How long should a training cycle last?
26:00 – How to best train for long steep routes?
32:35 – Can I train multiple grip positions in a single workout?
39:55 – Any words of wisdom for me after tearing my biceps tendon?
44:10 – I’m three weeks out from a trip to Spain…how should I train leading into the trip?
47:50 – What do you think of my unique pull-up routine?
52:25 – What do you think of deadlift style finger training?
54:40 – How can I prepare my youth climbers for competition skills?
THANK YOU: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10.
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