In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst discusses how to make the transition from indoor gym training over the cold winter months to outdoor performance. He also answers viewer questions about endurance training, minimum edge versus maximum weight training, recovery from shoulder surgery, and more!
EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!
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RUNDOWN
0:20 – Introductory comments from home
4:15 – SIP COFFEE together — Climbers around the world unite!
4:40 – Shoutout to Cameron Hörst, who has recently send three 5.14d/9a+ routes in just over a month
6:30 – Transitioning from indoor training to outdoor performance
8:15 – What have you been working on or avoiding lately? Where do you stand coming into the season in relation to your goals?
10:30 – How does weight and weight optimization play into performance?
11:30 – Stages of transition and performance
19:00 – Viewer questions answered
19:35 – How many sets of intervals on the spray wall is most effective for endurance training?
28:45 – How to mix minimum edge training with maximum weight training?
31:30 – What’s the recovery from shoulder surgery like?
35:40 – Can you do hypergravity training on vertical sport routes?
41:40 – How to transition to training pocket grips after training small edges?
50:00 – Closing comments; happy sending!
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