This third edition of Training for Climbing builds on the international best-selling first (2002) and second (2008) editions of this breakthrough text. Eric Hörst continues his tradition of melding leading-edge sport science and his forty years of climbing and coaching experience to create a unique and compelling book packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information.
Drawing on the latest climbing research, this third edition (2016) of Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive, evidence-based program for improving climbing performance. With the unique perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Hörst blends leading-edge sport science with his decades of climbing and coaching experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information.
Some of the vital topics explored in detail:
- Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and aerobic endurance—invaluable for nuancing advanced- and elite-level training programs for maximum effectiveness.
- “Training zones” for rock climbers—the secret to truly effective training of the crucial forearm flexor muscles.
- Five new hangboard training protocols for developing maximum strength and strength-endurance in the finger flexors.
- Power-endurance training protocols for increasing anaerobic capacity (critical for steep, powerful boulders and routes).
- How to execute and nuance submaximal (volume) climbing to strengthen the local (forearm) aerobic energy system.
- How to execute a proper training taper to create a peaking effect for a project redpoint day, roadtrip, or competition.
- Recalibrating the brain’s central governor for higher power output, increased stamina, and pushing your body to a new performance extreme.
- Daily Undulating Periodization as a novel method of on-season programming (i.e. how to schedule weekday workouts to help, not hurt, performance when you’re climbing hard on the weekends).
- Does running (and other generalized aerobic training) enhance climbing performance…and, if so, how much aerobic activity is beneficial?
- How to accelerate recovery on-route, between climbings, and in between training/climbing days.
- Comprehensive core training—how to build total core strength (not just strong abs)!
- Stabilizer training to reduce risk of shoulder injury and improve your climbing power.
- How to accelerate learning of climbing skills—learn the rules for truly effective practice and developing excellent technique.
- How to control your mind and emotions in stressful situations—learn how to improve focus, manage fear, overcome adversity, and stretch your limits!
This third edition of Training for Climbing includes expanded chapters on developing strength, power, and endurance in the crucial finger flexor and pulling muscles, as well as a must-read chapter on developing exceptional core strength. Hörst completes his coaching with dedicated chapters on technique and mental training, performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and injury prevention. The book’s 352 pages of expert instruction make for the most advanced and complete book of its type!
Let Hörst’s passion for climbing, research, training, and his exploration of the boundaries of personal performance help you achieve your personal best!
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Editorial reviews of previous edition:
Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you’re just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you’ll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available. Better yet, it’s presented in a clean and easily understandable format, with inspiring and illustrative photos. —Rock and Ice magazine
Eric Hörst has taken complex scientific training concepts and integrated these with contemporary research on climbing to produce a very readable and useful training guide. This book will lead the climber to new heights of performance. —Phillip B. Watts, PhD, exercise physiologist & climbing researcher, Northern Michigan University
Hörst is uniquely positioned to bring current methods in sports psychology and exercise science to the world of climbing, and he has hit the mark in superb style! If you are passionate about climbing and getting better, Training for Climbing will become your dog-eared companion! —Richard K. Fleming, PhD, climber researcher & assistant professor of psychology, University of Massachusetts Medical School
With comprehensive textbook-like descriptions of nutrition, recovery, weight training, and structured workouts, Training for Climbing is a crucial addition to your climbing library. Use this book to make 5.13 a reality instead of just a dream. —Michelle Hurni, author of Coaching Climbing
A sampling of reader feedback from around the world:
I would like to thank you for writing Training for Climbing! It has been incredibly helpful and inspiring, and has helped me improve quickly. I’ve recommended it to everyone on my climbing team! —Sarah (New Hampshire)
Hello Eric, thank you for all the time and energy spent researching and writing. I purchased Training for Climbing when it first came out and within a year I was climbing 2 grades harder. We call it the ‘clible’! —Cody (Utah)
Thanks for writing Training for Climbing—It’s an amazing book! —Alex (Spain)
I want to tell you that Training for Climbing is clearly the best and most comprehensive book on climbing training methodology I have ever read. In particular, the chapters on mental training and skills/strategy training have inspired me and given me extremely valuable insights for my future workouts. Thanks for such a great work! —Guido (Switzerland)
I have just read your book Training for Climbing, and I think it is great! —Sven (Croatia)
Having never climbed, at age 26 I dove into climbing and thanks to Training for Climbing I lost 15 pounds and got myself to 5.10s in just four months. I sincerely appreciate the specific attention you give to mental training and what I like to call ‘enlightened climbing’. Your writing is beautifully clear. —Paul (Michigan)
Training for Climbing is a great book–it is testament to a sport filled with nuance. I love learning as much as I can about every aspect of this sport, and your books make me want to get out there and climb! —Chris (UK)
Let me say that I am a HUGE fan of your writing. Your books Training for Climbing, Conditioning for Climbers, and How to Climb 5.12 have changed my life and approach to training for the better! —John (Mass.)
Hey Eric, just to say thanks for your book Training for Climbing. I have read it more than once and every time I find some new valuable info for improving my climbing. —Felipe (Guatemala)
I’m a huge fan of your climbing, training products, books, and training programs. If only I had found them sooner!! —Jake (Virginia)
I have been reading your recent book Training for Climbing (twice, cover to cover) and I’m now on my way to rescheduling my training with a much more nuanced focus than before. Thank you for the enlightenment and inspiration! —Sigurd (California
Eric, just wanted to say thanks for writing Training for Climbing. Since I started reading it and training, I have improved tremendously. I am having a great time doing the strength-training exercises and just enjoying the process of climbing with a different mentality. —Carlos (California)
Thank you, Mr. Hörst, for helping me achieve my first 5.12a just a few days ago! —Hiroyasu (Japan)
Hi Eric, I’ve just finished reading Training for Climbing—great work! Over the last 14 years I have studied climbing and to date your book is by far the most accessible to average climbers. —Paul (Australia)
I read a quote from your training book and consequently bought it. This book has changed my whole attitude in climbing and life due to your mental training chapter. Just wanted to say thank you! —Scott (Pennsylvania)
Thanks for your great books, Eric. I have read them all—they are the best! —Ofer (Israel)
What a great book! Your HIT system workout definitely gave me much more strength. Thank you very much for your great work, Eric! —Andre (California)
Hi Eric, I read your book Training for Climbing. I think it is the best book in the field. —Roberto (Ecuador)
