Video: Effective Pinch-Grip Training for Climbers

Posted by Eric Hörst | Sep 1, 2022 | Train Body, Training Videos

Video: Effective Pinch-Grip Training for Climbers

Develop a Stronger Pinch Grip for Bouldering and Rock Climbing with Pinch-Grip Repeater Training!

(This article was originally published in January 2020.)

Learn a simple, yet effective training method for developing a stronger pinch grip for bouldering and rock climbing. This exercise will also strengthen your thumb-lock for “closed crimp” gripping small holds.

The pinch-grip Repeater training protocol explained by Coach Hörst involves doing 3 sets of Repeaters. Each set is a 7-second pinch done 6 times with each hand. Rest 3 to 5 minutes between sets. Equipment featured in this video includes “The Block” by Tension Climbing and a free-weight loading pin by Rogue Fitness (although we recommend the Lattice “Quad” Pinch block and the Lattice Lifting Pin).

Learn More About Finger and Grip Strength Training

Thank you to all of our sponsors: La Sportiva, DMM, Maxim Ropes, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage performance nutrition.

Copyright © 2000–2023 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

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‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS answered with Coach @eric_horst!

In episode 80 of Training Café, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective and personalized winter training program.

Plus, he answers view questions beginning around 26:00 mark.

➡️➡️ Listen to the full episode on YouTube or in @physivantage bio!

• @cam_horst admits that the first few sessions

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@cam_horst admits that the first few sessions of his projects can be a bit uninspired—hanging on nearly every bolt—despite being a pro climber.

But after 15-plus years of climbing and actively studying the “art” of projecting, he has learned that the most important part of projecting is repeated failure. By embracing failure and fine-tuning his sequences, he often sees rapid progress.

Tap the link by @climbingmagazine in our bio to get his tips for sending your project.

✍️ @cam_horst
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Climbers diet and nutrition!

Our latest Podcast with @eric_horst is online on YouTube and Spotify now!!!
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