Training Café #92 - My Training Resolutions for 2026!

One of the biggest challenges for experienced climbers is not a lack of motivation—but getting stuck in effective but stagnant routines. Training works… until it doesn’t. And when progress slows, the solution is rarely “do more.” More often, it’s about refining the stimulus and better supporting recovery.

In this Training Café episode, I shared the specific training, nutrition, and lifestyle upgrades I’m implementing heading into 2026. While these choices reflect my own needs as a 60+ year-old climber, the underlying principles apply to climbers at any age who want to train smarter and stay healthy for the long haul. See the key points below…

Watch the video on the T4C YouTube channel, or watch on the embedded video player below. Enjoy!

1. Daily Movement Matters (Even on “Rest” Days)

This year, my baseline rule is simple: do something physical every day.

That doesn’t mean climbing daily. It means maintaining daily movement—running, lifting, mobility work, or light aerobic exercise. For older athletes especially, complete inactivity accelerates deconditioning and slows recovery.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“Active recovery and rest days for climbers”
“Training frequency and recovery for aging climbers”

2. Avoid the Comfort Trap in Training

Progressive overload only works if the stimulus actually changes. Even well-designed programs lose effectiveness when repeated endlessly.

After decades of coaching, I still see climbers relying on cookie-cutter programs long past their expiration date. This year, I’m deliberately introducing new stressors to drive adaptation.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“Progressive overload for climbing training”
“Why climbers plateau—and how to break through”

3. Supplementing Fingerboard Training with Two-Finger Edge Lifts

Weighted fingerboard hangs remain a cornerstone of my training, but they don’t adequately target two-finger strength.

To address this gap, I’ve added two-finger edge lifts using a tension block and loading pin. Training both half-crimp and open-hand positions allows more specific loading of the finger flexors involved in small-edge climbing—particularly on outdoor routes.

This work supplements—not replaces—standard hangboard protocols.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“Fingerboard training protocols for climbers”
“Half crimp vs open hand: grip positions explained”

4. Route-Specific “Simulator” Training

General strength doesn’t always translate to sending. When a single crux move is the limiter, the most effective solution is often highly specific practice.

This season, I’m building a replica boulder of a key outdoor crux and training it once or twice per week. This approach improves movement efficiency, force production, and confidence in the exact positions required on the route.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“Specificity in climbing training”
“How to train for a hard redpoint crux”

5. Strengthening the Core—More Completely

Climbing builds a strong core—but not always a balanced one. Alongside compound movements like deadlifts and front levers, I’m reintroducing isolated core training to improve body tension and force transfer on steep terrain.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“Core training for climbers”
“Body tension and steep climbing performance”

6. Nutrition Adjustments to Support Recovery

Two intentional changes this year:

Reducing alcohol intake, which improves sleep and recovery
Increasing protein intake, especially important for aging athletes

I continue to use collagen before training to support connective tissue remodeling and high-quality protein post-workout and before bed to support muscle recovery.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“Protein requirements for climbers”
“Collagen supplementation and tendon health”

7. Improving Sleep (Even Incrementally)

Sleep remains the most undervalued performance variable in climbing. Even small improvements in sleep duration and consistency can dramatically enhance recovery, hormone balance, and training adaptations.

Training stress only pays off if you recover from it.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“Sleep and recovery for climbers”
“Why poor sleep limits climbing performance”

8. Prioritizing Outdoor Climbing

Indoor training is a means—not the end. With each passing year, I’m increasingly intentional about scheduling outdoor climbing time.

Gyms build capacity. Real rock builds skill, perspective, and lasting memories.

👉 Internal link suggestion:
“How indoor training transfers to outdoor climbing”
“Planning a climbing season for peak performance”

Takeaway: Train with Intention

These upgrades aren’t about training harder. They’re about training more deliberately—applying the right stress, supporting recovery, and keeping the big picture in view.

If your goal is long-term progress, resilience, and enjoyment of climbing, the answer isn’t more volume. It’s better decisions.

Train smart. Recover well. And climb for life.

Join the conversation with coach Hörst on future live broadcasts. Subscribe to the Training4Climbing channel and ring the bell for notification of the next live stream. Bring your questions…and coffee!

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Expert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: https://physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing

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