Energy System Training (Hörst Keynote at IRCRA)
The International Rock Climbing Researchers Association (IRCRA) held their biennial meeting on Telluride (CO), this…
4 Fingerboard Training Protocols That Work
Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. In terms…
Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols
I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology, and motor…
Podcast #7: Managing the Fears of Falling & Failure
In this episode we’ll examine two of the most common fears among climbers—the fear of…
Video: Alex Megos’ “The Secret” (Episode 4)
Here’s the fourth and final video in the Red Bull series about Alex Megos. This episode…
Video: Chris Sharma Training for “Le Blond” Project
Got to love Chris Sharma—he’s been climbing at the cutting edge for nearly 20 years,…
Taping Finger & Elbow Injuries
Volker Schoeffl M.D. literally wrote the book on climbing injuries…a must-own text titled One Move…
Podcast: Energy System Training (and more!)
I recently sat down with an old friend, Kris “Odub” Hampton, to talk about my…
Treating “Climber’s Elbow”
Pain near the medial epicondyle is commonly called “golfer’s elbow” or “climber’s elbow.” Pain develops…
6 Enemies of Concentration
Researchers have compared successful and less-successful performers and determined that the ability to maintain concentration…