Podcast #22: Ask Coach Hörst – Hangboard Training, Big Wall & Multi-Sport Training

As a change-up to my typical long-format, single-topic drill down podcast, I present to you the first episode of “Ask Coach Hörst”! Listen in as I answer 10 listener questions covering a wide range of topics from in-season hangboard training, training for big wall stamina, training to excel at climbing and another sport, and much more. Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes.

If you’d like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment the pinned post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing—include your first name, location, and years climbing.

Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to “Eric Hörst’s Training For Climbing” podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Direct download as MP3 Please write a review on iTunes!

Rundown

1:06 – Question #1. A student climber (5.13b) with access to a small university gym (45 degree wall & campus board only) wants to know about doing weighted hangboard training on a portable hangboard…and the pros/cons of training two consecutive days?

6:29 – Question #2. SoCal climber asks how to do hangboard training for “gains” when there’s year-round outdoor climbing…that is, no poor-weather off-season to do targeted training.

13:07 – Question #3. A climber with no access to a commercial climbing gym inquires how to train route endurance while only having a hangboard and campus board for home training?

19:20 – Question #4. How to best ramp up training for big wall stamina this summer season?

22:20 – Question #5. How to integrate a progressive overload hangboard training program with outdoor climbing for performance?

24:24 – Question #6. How much aerobic cross-training is too much…that is, what volume of aerobic training would it take to begin hindering climbing performance?

31:15 – Question #7. What to do during rest breaks between fingerboard or pull-up sets? Also, what about during rest periods between redpoint attempts?

37:47 – Question #8. How long does the “just go climbing approach” to improving climbing performance apply? At what point should a climber delve more deeply into intensive strength and power training?

42:00 – Question #9. How to best train for both rock climbing and mountain climbing?

45:42 – Question #10: Advice on how to advance from 6c to 7a and, hopefully, 7a+ (5.12a) while also playing (and training for) rugby? How to best train for both sports at a body weight of 80kg?

52:10 – Wrap up…How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of “Ask Coach Horst”. Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned “Ask Coach Horst” podcast.

53:00 – Teaser on the next episode of the T4C podcast on…Energy System Training Part #2. Don’t miss this episode on how to train more effectively!

Music by: Misty Murphy