Author: Eric Hörst

Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs

Posted by Eric Hörst | Apr 1, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery...

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Podcast #2: Climbing Performance “X-Factors”

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 6, 2015 | Podcasts

Ever wonder what intangibles make great climbers great? Learn the “X-factors”...

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Projecting Strategies – How to Suss and Send

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 2, 2015 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

“Nix any thoughts of redpointing the route—leave that for some future moment; whether it’s...

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Matilda Söderlund Trains at Café Kafe

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 1, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

This new Gimme Kraft! video features Matilda Söderlund, a Swedish climber who burst onto the...

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Sachi Amma Gettin’ Kraft!

Posted by Eric Hörst | Feb 22, 2015 | Gimme Kraft!, Training Articles

This Gimme Kraft! video shows Japan’s Sachi Amma visiting Cafe Kraft coach Dicki Korb,...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
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Projecting is all about long-term investment, but

Projecting is all about long-term investment, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t make it more efficient. Prevent burnout on your project by learning 10 tips and techniques for speeding up the redpointing process! Read more in the link in bio for 10 Do’s and Dont’s in climbing!
#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training #redpoint

@thestruggleclimbingshow “Getting the training r

@thestruggleclimbingshow “Getting the training right becomes more and more important with every passing year.“

In the recent Road to 13a episode with @eric_horst, we take a deep dive into WHAT to train and WHEN to train it… in order to peek when it matters.

🎧 You can listen to the full 90-min episode at zero cost, wherever you get your pods. Or follow the link in our bio!

As the fall season approaches endurance climbing i

As the fall season approaches endurance climbing is surely on the minds of a lot of climbers. The nuances of outdoor climbing can sometimes even overwhelming, especially on a long project. It’s important to understand these nuances to stay in control and maximize your efforts. These nuances include understanding how to rest, keeping your mind in check, and mitigating pump. Read about these in depth in the link in bio for Slowing The Pump Clock!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #climb #endurance #pump #strongerclimbing

Check out last weeks article with RD @amity.warme

Check out last weeks article with RD @amity.warme on all things fueling your personal climbing journey. Personal nutrition, importance of weight: weight loss, and optimal weight, as well as meal timing and supplement use. Read about it all in the link in our bio!
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#climbing #nutrition #training #trainingforclimbing

@c4hp outlines the importance of training lock off

@c4hp outlines the importance of training lock offs along with a detailed progression of increasing recruitment to target the lats to help you climb stronger!
・・・
✊🏽Inverted Row Progression✊🏽

Training the arms at 90 degrees (out in front of the body, not overhead) or with less shoulder flexion has been shown to be optimal for lat activation.

If the goal is to train the lats for pull strength, the recommendation is to use the inverted or seated row exercise. Many gyms don’t have a seated row machine, so the inverted row is a practical substitute.

The following videos show a progression of difficulty for the inverted row exercise. If your gym does not have a seated row machine (more straightforward to add intensity), you need to modify the method of using the inverted row to increase recruitment.

Video 1️⃣ : 90-120-degree lock-off transitions. Hold each angle for 5-seconds and move between them. Do this to muscular failure each set. 5 sets with 2-3-minutes rest. After 6-10 sessions, progress to video 2 example.

Video 2️⃣ : 90-degree single arm lock-offs. Hold each angle for 5-seconds, alternating arms. Do this to failure each set. 5 sets / arm with 2-3-minutes rest. I’d also do this at the 120-degree elbow angle (no video). After 6-10 sessions, progress to video 3.

Video 3️⃣: 1-arm full range inverted row. Make sure you reduce the intensity as needed (make the body less horizontal to the floor). Pull from the straight arm through a full range of each set. 5 sets of 2-4 reps/arm with 2-3-minutes rest. After 6-10 sessions, progress to video 4.

Video 4️⃣: Power-focused inverted rows. Full range of motion pulling with maximum concentric (pulling towards the bar) velocity. 5 sets of 4-8 reps (power low) each set. 2-3-minutes rest. After 6-10 sessions, stop the progression, send boulders, or switch to another pulling exercise

There isn’t a “perfect” exercise for a sport. Exercises are supplements that have an intention. Sticking with one for too long is not practical either. Injury prevention is exercise progressions and regressions.

#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing

Coach @eric_horst is back on the Road to 13a to po

Coach @eric_horst is back on the Road to 13a to pour a bucket of cold reality on my summer training, and help get me ready to take on my hardest route this fall.

In this nutrient-dense conversation we cover:
- What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season
- How to carry a project over from one season to the next
- The secret to being a successful route climber
- Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training
- The science of building route fitness
- Summer training specifics (in 10 hours a week)
- Why many climbers are training endurance wrong

This episode is brought to you at zero cost thanks to @physivantage. For this month only, use code ROAD to score 20% off your full price nutrition order 💪

Listen wherever you get your podcasts, and access the full uncut video plus exclusive bonus content by supporting the show on Patreon (7-day free trial!), link in bio 🤘

I hope your training and climbing are going great!

Find it wherever you podcasts are found!

📷: @twincannons

If you haven’t checked it out yet go tune into t

If you haven’t checked it out yet go tune into the TFC podcast from earlier this spring about the impact skin care and chalk on performance. The numerous techniques to optimize of these aspects of performance are discussed in depth in this episode. Click the link in the bio “Getting a Grip TFC podcast 97” to read more and find the episode wherever you listen!
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#climb #training #skin #climbingtraining #climbing

Curious how to get into hangboard training? Depend

Curious how to get into hangboard training? Depending on where you’re at in your climbing journey, you need a tailored hangboard protocol (or none at all) varying in intensity, duration, and frequency. Check out the comprehensive guide to beginning hangboard training in the “introduction to hangboard training” link in bio.

#trainingforclimbing #climb #climbingtraining #fingerstrength #climbing

Everyone knows the importance of core strength but

Everyone knows the importance of core strength but are you training it effectively? Every climber should have a diverse regime of core workouts to work on different ways of recruitment and primary focuses. Here @yannick_flohe outlines a bit so easy workout that can be done quickly almost anywhere. Other important exercises include planks, in the wall isometric exercises and sling work. Check out some more in depth exercises in the “Advanced Core Training for Climbers” article in the link in our bio!
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#climbing #climbingtraining #climb #corestrength #strong

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